Why Are My Buffaloberry Leaves Curling?
Buffaloberry (Shepherdia argentea, silver buffaloberry) is a thorny, nitrogen-fixing, drought-tolerant shrub from North American prairies with distinctive silver-grey foliage and small, intensely tart red-orange berries. Unlike most fruiting shrubs, it thrives in poor, dry, even alkaline soils and requires no nitrogen fertiliser because its root nodules fix atmospheric nitrogen. When the silvery leaves curl or distort in UK cultivation, drought stress or aphid infestation are the most likely culprits.
Drought stress
Although buffaloberry is highly drought-tolerant when established, newly planted specimens in the UK can suffer from drought stress because they have not yet developed the deep root system that allows mature plants to find water in dry conditions. In its native prairie habitat, buffaloberry develops roots several metres deep in well-drained soil; in UK cultivation in shallow or compacted soil, this deep rooting may be restricted. Drought-stressed buffaloberry shows wilting and curling of the younger leaves first; the silvery leaf surface (caused by a covering of fine scales) may give a dry, papery appearance.
What to do
- Water newly planted buffaloberry through the first two to three growing seasons during dry spells; established plants require little irrigation. Do not overwater or create waterlogged conditions, which is more damaging to buffaloberry than drought. Mulch around the root zone to reduce evaporation. Once established in well-drained soil, buffaloberry rarely needs watering in a typical UK climate.
Aphids
Aphids can colonise the young shoot tips of buffaloberry in spring, causing the tender new leaves to curl and distort. The infestations are usually short-lived as natural predators (ladybirds, lacewings, hoverfly larvae) build up in response; buffaloberry is not as severely affected by aphids as soft fruit species such as gooseberry and blackcurrant. However, on young plants or in early spring when predators are still scarce, heavy aphid colonies on the growing tips can cause noticeable leaf curl and slow the growth of new shoots.
What to do
- Check the shoot tips from April. Knock aphids off with a strong water jet or pinch off the most heavily colonised tips. Apply insecticidal soap if the infestation is heavy. Encourage natural predators by growing flowering plants alongside. On established, healthy buffaloberry, aphid damage rarely requires intervention; natural predators typically resolve the problem without help.
Leaf rust
Leaf rust (Puccinia species) can affect buffaloberry, producing small, bright orange or yellow pustules on the undersides of the leaves and corresponding pale, yellow spots on the upper surface; severely infected leaves may curl and drop. Rust on buffaloberry is relatively uncommon in UK gardens but can occur in wet summers. Puccinia rusts typically have alternate hosts (they require two different plant species to complete their life cycle), so identifying and removing alternate host plants in the vicinity can help reduce rust pressure.
What to do
- Remove and destroy infected leaves. Improve air circulation by pruning out congested growth. Apply a sulphur-based fungicide at the first sign of infection, repeating every 14 days. Avoid wetting the foliage when watering. On buffaloberry, rust infections rarely cause serious long-term harm to an established, vigorous plant.
Waterlogging
Waterlogging is more damaging to buffaloberry than drought; the plant is adapted to the freely draining, arid conditions of the North American prairies and has no tolerance for waterlogged soil. In UK heavy clay soils or in low-lying positions, waterlogged roots quickly develop root rot. The first sign is yellowing leaves, then wilting and sudden collapse; the distinction from drought-induced wilt is that the soil is wet rather than dry. If waterlogging is the cause, the roots will be brown and mushy rather than white and firm.
What to do
- Ensure planting sites are very well drained; break up any hardpan below the planting hole and add grit or gravel if the soil drains poorly. Plant on a slope or raised mound in heavy clay gardens. Do not plant in depressions where water collects. In container cultivation, ensure excellent drainage and do not allow the pot to sit in standing water.
Frequently asked questions
Why are my buffaloberry leaves curling?
Buffaloberry (Shepherdia argentea) leaves curl most commonly because of drought stress in newly planted specimens, aphid infestation on the young shoot tips in spring, or leaf rust. Waterlogging is more damaging than drought and causes root rot and sudden collapse rather than leaf curl. Buffaloberry is very hardy and generally low-maintenance once established in a well-drained, sunny position.
What is buffaloberry and can I grow it in the UK?
Buffaloberry (Shepherdia argentea) is a thorny, nitrogen-fixing shrub from North American prairies with silver-grey leaves and tart red-orange berries. It tolerates chalk, alkaline soils, drought, and poor fertility; it does poorly in wet or heavy soils. It is dioecious (separate male and female plants needed for fruit). Fully frost-hardy; available from specialist UK nurseries. An ornamental and productive curiosity for sunny, well-drained UK gardens.
What do buffaloberries taste like?
Buffaloberries are extremely tart, acidic, and slightly bitter raw; cooked or sweetened, they develop a cranberry-like flavour. Their high saponin content causes them to foam vigorously when beaten, which is the basis for the traditional indigenous North American preparation called "Indian ice cream" (sxusem): the berries are whipped with water until a pink meringue-like foam forms and then sweetened. In UK gardens, the berries are rarely used for cooking despite being edible.
How do I grow buffaloberry in the UK?
Plant in full sun in very well-drained, low-fertility soil; tolerates chalk and alkaline conditions. Dioecious: plant at least one male plant alongside female plants for fruit. No nitrogen fertiliser is needed (root nodules fix atmospheric nitrogen). Minimal pruning required. Very drought-tolerant once established. Space at 2 to 3 metres. Cold-stratified seed or layering for propagation.