Plant problems

Why Are My Convolvulus Leaves Curling?

Convolvulus cneorum (silverbush) is a compact, dome-shaped, evergreen Mediterranean sub-shrub with gleaming silver-silky leaves and white funnel flowers from May to August; one of the most effective plants for a sunny gravel garden or dry bank in the UK. It needs full sun, very well-drained soil, and alkaline to neutral conditions; the main threats in UK gardens are waterlogging in winter and cold damage from hard frost, both of which brown and curl the silver leaves.

Waterlogging

Waterlogging is the most common cause of failure and leaf curl in Convolvulus cneorum in UK gardens; the plant's roots and crown are highly intolerant of saturated, poorly aerated soil and rot rapidly in wet winter conditions, causing the silver leaves to brown from the tips inward and curl before the whole plant collapses. Plants in heavy clay soils, in low-lying positions, or in containers sitting in saucers of water are at highest risk. The symptoms can appear suddenly in winter or early spring: a plant that appeared healthy in autumn may be dead or dying by February after a wet winter on an unsuitable site.

What to do

  • Plant exclusively in very well-drained soil; a sunny gravel garden, raised bed with gritty compost, dry-stone wall top, or rocky bank is ideal. Add substantial coarse grit (at least 50% by volume) to any soil that does not drain freely and quickly. Avoid low-lying positions. Top-dress the soil surface around the plant with coarse grit to divert rainwater away from the crown. In containers, use a very gritty compost and ensure drainage holes are clear; never allow the pot to sit in standing water.

Cold damage

Convolvulus cneorum is marginally hardy, surviving to about -5 to -8°C in ideal, bone-dry, well-drained conditions; below this threshold the silver leaves blacken, curl, and may die, and the crown can be killed by a combination of cold and wet. The combination of frost and wet soil is far more damaging than frost in dry soil: in a dry gravel garden, the plant can survive temperatures that would kill it in a waterlogged bed. Cold damage is most visible in late winter (February to March) after a hard frost; affected shoots may appear dead but can sometimes recover if the crown is alive.

What to do

  • Choose the warmest, most sheltered position available (south or west-facing wall or bank) for the best winter survival. Apply a thick layer of coarse grit (5 to 8 cm) over the crown in November to insulate it from frost while improving drainage around the most vulnerable tissues. Do not cut back frost-damaged shoots until April when new growth reveals the extent of damage. Take semi-ripe cuttings in July or August as insurance against winter losses; these root readily and provide replacement plants if the parent plant is killed.

Drought stress

Convolvulus cneorum is highly drought-tolerant in the ground in freely draining soil; drought stress is primarily a problem for container-grown specimens, where the restricted root volume can dry out rapidly in warm summer weather. The silver, silky leaves curl inward when the plant is severely drought-stressed; though the plant recovers well from moderate drying out, repeated severe drought stress in a container weakens the plant over time. In the ground, even in the driest UK summers, established Convolvulus cneorum rarely needs watering.

What to do

  • In containers, check moisture every 2 to 3 days in warm weather and water when the top 5 cm of compost is completely dry; allow the compost to dry substantially between waterings, as the plant is adapted to dry-wet cycles rather than constant moisture. In the ground, no irrigation is needed once established. Use a terracotta pot rather than plastic; terracotta breathes and the compost dries more quickly, reducing the risk of overwatering which is more damaging than underwatering for this plant.

Vine weevil

Vine weevil (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) larvae feed on the roots of Convolvulus cneorum, particularly plants grown in containers; root damage causes sudden wilting and collapse of shoots that were previously healthy. Adults notch the margins of the silver leaves with characteristic irregular U-shaped cuts at night in summer. Container-grown plants are much more vulnerable than ground-planted specimens because vine weevils lay eggs preferentially in the compost of container plants and the larvae have no other food source than the plant's roots.

What to do

  • Apply the biological control nematode Steinernema kraussei to container compost in August or September when soil temperatures are above 5°C; drench the compost thoroughly and repeat in spring. Check the roots of any wilting container plant; cream, C-shaped larvae confirm vine weevil. Remove and destroy larvae and repot in fresh compost. For ground-planted specimens, vine weevil is rarely a serious problem; the population of natural predators in garden soil keeps larval numbers in check.

Frequently asked questions

Why are my Convolvulus cneorum leaves curling?

Convolvulus cneorum leaves curl most commonly because of waterlogging (the most serious threat; roots rot in wet winter soil and the plant collapses, with silver leaves browning and curling), cold damage from hard frost (the marginally hardy plant suffers below about -5°C, especially in wet conditions), drought stress in containers (the silver leaves curl inward when pot compost dries out completely), or vine weevil larvae in container compost. In perfect drainage and full sun, this is a trouble-free plant.

Is Convolvulus cneorum hardy in the UK?

Convolvulus cneorum is marginally hardy, surviving to about -5 to -8°C in very well-drained soil against a sheltered south or west-facing position. In wet, poorly draining soil, even milder frosts can be fatal. In most of southern England in a free-draining gravel garden or raised bed, the plant is reliably perennial. In heavier soils, colder gardens, or container culture, treat it as potentially needing replacement after a hard winter; keep rooted cuttings as insurance.

How do I grow Convolvulus cneorum in the UK?

Grow in full sun, very well-drained alkaline to neutral soil (gravel garden, raised bed, dry-stone wall, sunny bank); add at least 50% coarse grit to any soil that does not drain freely. Poor, lean soil produces the tightest, most silvery, most floriferous plants; avoid fertile, moisture-retentive soil and fertilisers. Top-dress with coarse grit around the crown. In containers, use gritty John Innes No. 2 in a terracotta pot; water sparingly and never allow to sit in standing water.

How do I prune Convolvulus cneorum?

Trim lightly by about one third after the main flowering flush in June or July, cutting to where leafy growth is visible; never cut into bare old wood. In spring, remove frost-damaged or dead stems to healthy tissue once new growth is visible. Replace old, very woody, bare-centred plants with fresh specimens raised from semi-ripe cuttings taken in July or August rather than attempting hard renovation pruning.