Why Are My Lovage Leaves Curling?

Lovage aphid

The lovage aphid (Hyadaphis foeniculi) is a pale green, waxy aphid that is the most common and specific pest of lovage and related umbellifers. It attacks the growing tips and young leaves in dense colonies from late April onward, causing the leaves to curl tightly around the insects and the growing tip to become stunted and distorted. In severe infestations the entire growing point is engulfed in a mass of aphids, waxy secretions, and distorted leaf tissue. On established lovage plants, the lower stems continue growing even when the tip is attacked, and the plant typically outgrows moderate infestations without intervention.

What to do

• Inspect lovage growing tips weekly from late April for aphid colonies. On the large, vigorous lovage plant, simply cutting off the affected growing tip and composting it removes the entire colony and the distorted tissue simultaneously; the plant re-shoots from the cut stem within 1 to 2 weeks.
• A strong jet of water directed at the growing tip can dislodge aphid colonies without cutting the stem. Insecticidal soap is effective if colonies are very dense and cutting is not preferred.
• In summer, hoverfly larvae (which are voracious aphid predators) are commonly found near lovage in flower. Allowing some stems to reach full flower before cutting increases the beneficial insect population around the plant.

Celery leaf miner

Celery leaf miner (Euleia heraclei) attacks lovage as a member of the carrot family. The larvae mine between the upper and lower surfaces of the leaf, creating pale, irregular, blister-like patches. Affected leaves curl around the blistered areas as the tissue contracts. The damage is more noticeable on the large, pinnate leaves of lovage than on smaller-leaved herbs.

What to do

• Remove and destroy mined leaves promptly. On lovage, which produces leaves abundantly from a large crown, removing affected leaves and discarding them is more effective than trying to treat the plant. The plant rapidly replaces harvested leaves from its extensive root system.
• Cover young lovage plants in spring with fine insect mesh to exclude the adult fly during egg-laying periods (April to May and August to September).

Drought

Unlike Mediterranean herbs, lovage prefers moist, fertile soil and wilts more readily in drought. Its large leaves lose water quickly in hot, dry conditions, causing them to droop and curl. Established plants with deep root systems are more drought-tolerant than young plants in their first season.

What to do

• Water lovage during dry spells, particularly young plants in their first year. Apply a thick mulch of compost around the plant to retain soil moisture. Lovage grows best in a position with some afternoon shade in very hot summers, which reduces the rate of water loss from the large leaves.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew occasionally affects lovage in late summer, particularly on older leaves and on plants under drought stress. The characteristic white, powdery patches appear on the leaf surface and the affected leaves curl and yellow. On lovage, which naturally becomes large and over-mature by late summer, cutting the entire plant back hard in August is often the simplest response to powdery mildew, simultaneously addressing the mildew and encouraging a flush of fresh young growth.

What to do

• Cut lovage back to 15 to 20 centimetres above the ground in mid to late summer when powdery mildew appears or when the plant becomes overly large and the older leaves coarsen. The plant re-shoots vigorously within 2 to 3 weeks, producing a fresh supply of young, tender, well-flavoured leaves.

Frequently asked questions

Why are my lovage leaves curling?

Lovage leaves curl most often from lovage aphid, celery leaf miner, or drought. The lovage aphid (Hyadaphis foeniculi) is the most common and specific pest of lovage, attacking the growing tips and young leaves in large colonies that cause the leaves to curl tightly around the insects and the growing tips to become stunted and distorted. Celery leaf miner (Euleia heraclei) attacks lovage as a member of the carrot family (Apiaceae), causing the leaves to blister and curl as larvae mine between the leaf surfaces. Drought causes the large leaves to wilt and curl inward; lovage prefers moist soil and shows drought stress more readily than many Mediterranean herbs.

What does lovage taste like?

Lovage (Levisticum officinale) has an intense, complex flavour that is most often described as a combination of celery and yeast, with additional hints of parsley, anise, and pepper. It is much stronger than celery: a small quantity goes a very long way in cooking. The flavour is most concentrated in the stems and seeds, slightly less intense in the leaves. Young leaves and leaf stalks are most suitable for fresh use; older leaves become quite strong. All parts of the plant are edible: the leaves are used in salads, soups, stews, and casseroles; the hollow stems can be used as drinking straws for tomato juice or Bloody Marys; the roots can be used as a vegetable; and the seeds are used as a spice in breads, biscuits, and spice blends.

How big does lovage grow?

Lovage is one of the tallest culinary herbs grown in UK gardens, regularly reaching 1.5 to 2 metres in height when in flower. In its first year from seed it typically reaches 60 to 90 centimetres; in subsequent years, established plants send up impressive hollow stems topped by flat-headed, yellow-green flower umbels in early summer. The plant dies back to the ground each autumn and re-shoots vigorously from its deep taproot and crown in early spring, often being one of the first herbs to appear in the garden from March onward. A single established lovage plant provides more than enough leaves for most households: the leaves are intensely flavoured and used in small quantities, so one well-grown plant is rarely limiting.

How do I harvest lovage?

Harvest lovage leaves regularly from spring to mid-summer when the flavour is at its best: young leaves are more delicate and less bitter than older, larger leaves. Cut stems from the base of the plant with clean scissors or secateurs; removing outer stems first allows the central stems to continue developing. The flavour intensifies and becomes more bitter after the plant flowers in early summer. Cutting the flowering stems back as they emerge (before flowering) encourages the production of a fresh flush of young leaves with more delicate flavour. In mid-summer, a hard cut of the entire plant to 15 to 20 centimetres above the ground will prompt the plant to produce a completely fresh set of young growth. The leaves can be used fresh, dried slowly in a warm, airy spot, or frozen (blanching briefly before freezing preserves the colour and flavour better than freezing raw).