At a glance
- Leaves curling near a cold window, vent, or door: Cold temperatures or draft; move to warmth above 65°F immediately
- Leaves curling inward with dry soil: Underwatering; water thoroughly
- Leaf tips curling and browning despite adequate watering: Fluoride toxicity from tap water; switch to filtered or distilled water
- Leaves curling with brown tips in dry air: Low humidity; increase to 40%+ with a humidifier
- Leaves curling downward with yellowing and wet soil: Overwatering or root rot; let dry and check roots
Why aglaonema leaves curl
Aglaonema (Chinese evergreen) is widely recommended as one of the easiest houseplants to grow, and for good reason — it tolerates low light, irregular watering, and a range of indoor conditions better than most tropical plants. But it does have one notable sensitivity that catches many owners off guard: cold. Aglaonema is particularly sensitive to temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit and to cold drafts from air conditioning vents or cold windows, and leaf curling is one of its earliest and most reliable cold-stress responses. Beyond cold, the most common causes of leaf curl are underwatering and fluoride or mineral toxicity from tap water. Checking the temperature and noting whether the plant is near any cold source is the first diagnostic step whenever aglaonema leaves begin to curl.
Cause 1: Cold temperatures and drafts
Signs: Leaves are curling inward and the plant is positioned near a cold window, air conditioning vent, or exterior door or wall. Temperatures in the space drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, especially at night. The curling may be accompanied by yellowing or soft, dark patches on the leaf where cold damage has occurred. The damage appeared suddenly.
Why it happens: Aglaonema is more cold-sensitive than many indoor plants recommend for their hardiness. Below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, root function slows significantly, reducing water uptake and causing the leaves to curl from moisture stress. Direct cold damage to the leaf cells produces yellowing and soft, dark patches. Cold drafts from air conditioning vents are a commonly overlooked cause, particularly in summer: the plant is in a warm room overall but positioned in the path of cold air from an overhead vent.
Fix: Move immediately to a consistently warm location above 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep away from cold windows in winter, air conditioning vents in summer, and exterior doors year-round. Cold-damaged leaf areas will not recover, but new growth in warm, stable conditions will be healthy. The curling from temperature stress (without direct tissue damage) should ease within 1 to 2 weeks of consistently warm conditions.
Cause 2: Underwatering
Signs: Leaves are curling inward along their length and feel slightly less firm or limp. The soil is dry. The pot is lightweight. The curling developed after a gap in watering or during a hot, dry period. The plant may also be drooping slightly at its petioles.
Why it happens: Aglaonema prefers evenly moist soil and will show drought stress when the soil dries out significantly. The leaves curl inward as the cells lose turgor and the plant reduces its transpiration surface to slow water loss. Aglaonema is more forgiving of periodic dryness than some tropical plants, but consistent underwatering causes curling and eventually yellowing.
Fix: Water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom of the pot. The leaves should begin to uncurl within 24 to 48 hours. Establish a routine that allows the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry between waterings. In moderate light, this is typically every 7 to 10 days in summer and every 10 to 14 days in winter.
Cause 3: Fluoride and mineral toxicity
Signs: The leaf tips are curling and turning brown or yellow. The damage starts at the very tip of the leaf and spreads inward over time. The pattern is consistent across multiple leaves and does not improve with more frequent watering or better care. White crusty deposits may be visible on the soil surface.
Why it happens: Aglaonema is sensitive to fluoride and other minerals commonly found in municipal tap water and in some fertilizers. These chemicals build up in the soil with each watering and eventually reach concentrations that damage the leaf tip cells — the furthest point from the roots — causing them to curl and die. This is a slow, progressive problem that develops over months of watering with tap water.
Fix: Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater. Flush the existing soil by watering slowly and thoroughly 3 to 4 times in succession to leach accumulated minerals. Reduce fertilizing to monthly at half strength during the growing season only. The existing brown, curled tips will not recover, but new growth after the toxicity is reduced will emerge clean. Trimming the brown tips with scissors improves the appearance of damaged leaves.
Cause 4: Low humidity
Signs: Leaf tips and edges are curling and browning. The indoor air is dry, particularly in winter. The soil moisture is adequate but the tip and edge damage persists. The browning is dry and papery rather than soft or yellow.
Why it happens: Aglaonema grows in the humid understory of Southeast Asian tropical forests and prefers humidity above 40 to 50%. In dry indoor air, particularly during winter when heating systems run constantly, the leaf tips and edges lose moisture faster than the roots can supply it, causing them to dry out, curl, and brown. This can look similar to fluoride toxicity, but humidity-related damage tends to affect the entire edge of the leaf rather than beginning only at the very tip.
Fix: Increase humidity using a humidifier near the plant. Maintain above 40%. Keep the plant away from heating vents and radiators. Group with other plants to slightly raise local humidity. Aglaonema does not require very high humidity and usually does well at normal indoor levels of 40 to 60%.
Cause 5: Overwatering and root rot
Signs: Leaves are curling downward or drooping, and some are yellowing. The soil has been consistently wet. The plant looks generally unwell. Roots, when inspected, are dark and mushy rather than pale and firm. The pot smells musty.
Why it happens: Overwatering causes root rot that prevents the roots from supplying water and nutrients to the leaves, causing the leaves to curl downward and yellow from moisture stress and nutrient deficiency. The downward curl and yellowing combined with consistently wet soil distinguishes this from drought or cold-related curling. Aglaonema is particularly susceptible to root rot when grown in pots without drainage holes or in heavy, poorly draining soil.
Fix: Allow the soil to dry out significantly between waterings. If root rot is suspected, remove from the pot, trim all dark and mushy roots back to firm tissue, and repot in fresh, well-draining potting mix in a pot with drainage holes. Adjust watering to allow the top 1 to 2 inches to dry between waterings. Recovery takes 4 to 6 weeks.