At a glance
- Leaves yellow and curled, flowers green and leafy instead of petals: Aster yellows; remove infected plants immediately
- New growth curled and sticky with insects on stems: Aphids; water blast, insecticidal soap
- Leaves with white powdery coating curling upward in late summer: Powdery mildew; improve air circulation, apply neem oil
- Leaves curling and wilting in dry summer heat: Drought stress; water deeply, mulch soil
- Leaves with circular brown spots, curling and dropping: Septoria leaf spot; remove affected leaves, improve drainage
Why black-eyed Susan leaves curl
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta, R. fulgida, and R. triloba) are sun-loving North American native wildflowers and garden perennials known for their cheerful golden flowers with dark central cones. They are generally tough, low-maintenance plants that tolerate heat, drought, and poor soils better than many ornamentals. When their rough, bristly leaves curl, the most urgent diagnosis to make is whether aster yellows disease is present, because infected plants need to be removed immediately. Other causes of leaf curl in rudbeckia are less serious and more straightforward to address.
Cause 1: Aster yellows disease
Signs: The leaves are pale, yellowed, and curled. The flowers do not open normally: petals are absent or replaced by greenish, leafy structures, and the central dark cone may be surrounded by a cluster of abnormal growths. The plant is stunted, with an abnormally bushy or compact shape. The symptoms appear in mid to late summer when leafhopper populations are highest. The plant does not recover. This is the most serious disease affecting black-eyed Susan in North American gardens.
Why it happens: Aster yellows phytoplasma is transmitted by the aster leafhopper (Macrosteles quadrilineatus), which feeds on an enormous range of host plants before moving to black-eyed Susan. Rudbeckia is highly susceptible and shows severe symptoms, particularly the dramatic flower distortion. The disease is incurable because the phytoplasma becomes systemic throughout the plant.
Fix: Remove infected plants immediately, digging up the entire root system, and dispose of them in the trash. Do not compost infected material. Control leafhoppers with floating row cover over seedlings, reflective mulch, and by removing weeds that harbor the pest. Promptly remove any other nearby aster yellows hosts (zinnias, asters, coneflowers, phlox) that are showing symptoms.
Cause 2: Aphids
Signs: The stem tips and young leaves are curled, distorted, and sticky with honeydew. Clusters of small, soft-bodied insects are visible on the stems and leaf undersides. The aphids may be green, yellow, or dark; several species colonize rudbeckia including the green peach aphid. Black sooty mold may develop on honeydew deposits. The problem peaks in late spring and early summer.
Why it happens: Black-eyed Susan's succulent new growth is attractive to aphids in spring. The rough, bristly texture of the older leaves gives aphids some physical protection from predators. Population explosions are possible in cool spring weather before natural enemy populations build up, but aphid problems on established rudbeckia typically resolve on their own by midsummer.
Fix: Blast aphid colonies from stems with a strong stream of water and repeat every few days. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil for heavy infestations. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides that eliminate natural predators. Healthy, well-watered rudbeckia tolerates moderate aphid pressure without lasting harm.
Cause 3: Powdery mildew
Signs: A white powdery coating develops on the upper leaf surfaces in mid to late summer, particularly on the lower leaves of crowded plants. Affected leaves curl upward and may yellow and drop. The mildew does not require wet conditions to develop and is worst in humid weather with poor air circulation. While rudbeckia is less susceptible to powdery mildew than garden phlox, it can be significantly affected in problem sites.
Why it happens: Powdery mildew fungi (Erysiphe species) infect the leaf surface under warm, humid conditions with still air. Dense plantings and shaded positions create the microclimate the disease prefers. Mildew in late summer rarely prevents flowering but weakens the plant for the following season.
Fix: Improve air circulation by thinning overcrowded clumps and spacing plants at least 18 inches apart. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate at the first sign of infection. Remove and dispose of all plant debris in autumn. Water at the base of the plant. Select less susceptible Rudbeckia species (R. fulgida is generally more mildew-resistant than R. hirta cultivars).
Cause 4: Drought stress
Signs: The leaves are curling inward and the plant looks wilted during hot, dry periods. The soil is dry. Black-eyed Susan is more drought-tolerant than many perennials, but newly planted specimens and those in sandy or shallow soils wilt readily in summer heat. The rough, bristly texture of the leaves retains some heat relative to smooth-leaved plants, making drought stress more impactful in full sun.
Why it happens: While rudbeckia tolerates drought better than many flowers once established, consistent extreme drought prevents normal growth and flowering. Container plants and those in very sandy soils dry out quickly and need more frequent attention than those in moisture-retentive garden soils.
Fix: Water deeply during the hottest and driest periods of summer, soaking the root zone thoroughly. Apply a 3-inch organic mulch layer to retain soil moisture. Newly planted rudbeckia benefits from weekly watering in the first growing season. Once established in the ground, most rudbeckia species are self-sufficient except during prolonged drought.
Cause 5: Septoria leaf spot
Signs: Circular or angular brown spots with lighter centers appear on the lower and middle leaves, beginning in mid to late summer. The spots may have yellow halos. Affected leaves curl and drop progressively from the bottom of the plant upward. The disease is worst in wet conditions and in crowded plantings with poor air circulation. The stems and flowers are not typically affected, and the plant usually continues to bloom despite heavy leaf loss.
Why it happens: Septoria rudbeckiae is a fungal pathogen that overwinters on plant debris and infects rudbeckia leaves during wet or humid weather when spores splash from the soil onto the lower leaves. The disease spreads upward through the plant over the season. While alarming in appearance, Septoria leaf spot rarely kills an established plant and does not prevent flowering.
Fix: Remove and dispose of all affected plant material during the season and cut the plant to the ground in autumn, disposing of the debris rather than composting it. Avoid overhead watering and improve air circulation around plants. Apply a copper-based fungicide or chlorothalonil preventively in late spring in areas where the disease is a recurring problem. Mulch the soil surface to prevent spore splash from soil to leaves.