How to Propagate Monstera

Home / Guides

Step 1: Identify the node

The node is the single most important concept in monstera propagation. Without a node, a cutting cannot produce roots capable of growing a new plant. A node is the thickened, slightly bumpy section of the stem at the point where a leaf attaches. On a monstera, it appears as a ringed or ridged collar around the stem. Aerial roots (the brown, rope-like structures that grow outward from the stem) emerge from nodes.

To take a viable cutting, you need a section of stem that includes at least one node. The ideal cutting has a node, a short length of stem below the node, and one healthy leaf above it. A cutting with two nodes is even more reliable since it has a backup if one node fails.

Do not take a cutting that is only a leaf with a petiole (the leaf stem connecting it to the main vine). This will not grow into a new plant no matter how long you keep it in water.

Step 2: Take the cutting

Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Disinfecting the blade with rubbing alcohol before cutting reduces the chance of introducing bacteria or fungi to the cut surface. Make the cut below a node, leaving about an inch of stem below the node. Remove any leaves on the lower portion of the stem that would end up submerged in water.

Let the cut end sit in open air for 30 to 60 minutes before placing it in water or soil. This allows the cut surface to form a light callous, which reduces the chance of rot at the wound.

The milky white latex sap that oozes from the cut is a mild irritant; avoid getting it in your eyes and wash your hands after handling.

Method 1: Water propagation

Water propagation is the most popular method because you can watch root development and confirm the cutting is rooting before committing to soil.

1. Place the cutting in a clean glass or jar, with the node submerged and the leaf above the water line. The node must be in the water; roots emerge from the node, not from the cut end of the stem.
2. Use room-temperature water. Rainwater or filtered water is ideal; tap water works but change it more frequently.
3. Place in bright indirect light. Avoid direct sun on the water, which accelerates algae growth.
4. Change the water every 5 to 7 days, or immediately if it becomes cloudy or smells off.
5. Roots typically appear within 2 to 5 weeks in warm conditions (70 to 80 F / 21 to 27 C). They emerge from the node as white or cream threads.
6. Transfer to soil when roots are 1 to 2 inches long. Do not wait until roots are very long; water roots are structurally different from soil roots, and cuttings left too long in water have more difficulty adjusting to soil.

Method 2: Direct soil propagation

Planting directly into soil skips the water-to-soil transition and can produce a more vigorous root system for long-term growth. The downside is that you cannot see root development and must infer success from new leaf growth.

1. Prepare a small pot with well-draining, lightly moist potting mix. A mix of standard potting soil and perlite (50:50) works well.
2. Let the cutting callous for an hour after taking it.
3. Optional: dip the cut end and node in rooting hormone powder before planting. This speeds root formation but is not required.
4. Insert the cutting into the mix so the node is buried about an inch below the surface. The leaf should be above the soil line.
5. Keep the soil lightly moist but not wet. Covering the cutting with a clear plastic bag or a cut plastic bottle creates a humidity tent that speeds rooting; remove it for 30 minutes daily to allow air exchange.
6. Place in bright indirect light. New leaf growth in 4 to 8 weeks indicates successful rooting.

Method 3: Air layering

Air layering is the best method for large, established monstera plants where cutting a stem would remove a significant portion of the plant. It allows roots to form on the plant before any cut is made.

1. Identify a node on a healthy stem, ideally one with an aerial root already emerging from it.
2. Make a shallow upward cut into the stem just below the node, about one-third of the way through. Alternatively, scrape a small section of bark away around the node to expose the green layer beneath.
3. Dust the wound with rooting hormone if available.
4. Pack damp sphagnum moss tightly around the node and wound, forming a ball about the size of a fist.
5. Wrap the moss ball tightly in clear plastic wrap, sealing both ends with tape or twist ties. The moss must stay consistently moist but not dripping wet.
6. Check every 1 to 2 weeks. When roots are visible through the plastic and have grown 1 to 2 inches into the moss (typically 4 to 8 weeks), cut the stem just below the moss ball and pot the rooted section.

After potting: what to expect

A freshly potted monstera cutting will focus its energy on developing soil roots before producing any new leaves. This period of apparent inactivity can last 4 to 8 weeks, sometimes longer. Resist the urge to fertilize, repot, or move the cutting during this time. Keep the soil lightly moist, maintain bright indirect light, and wait.

The first sign of success is typically a new leaf unfurling from the growing tip. On young cuttings, early leaves may be smaller and less fenestrated than mature monstera leaves; this is normal. Fenestrations (holes and splits) develop as the plant matures and receives more light.

Troubleshooting

Cutting not rooting after 6 weeks in water: Check that the node is submerged. If the water is frequently murky, change it more often. Ensure the cutting is in a warm spot; cold temperatures significantly slow rooting. If the stem is becoming brown and slimy, rot has set in; trim back to healthy tissue and start again.

Roots forming in water but dying after soil transfer: The roots may have been too long before transfer. Long water roots are brittle and the structures adapted to water do not map well to soil. Transfer earlier next time. Ensure the soil is not too wet after potting; let it dry slightly between waterings to encourage the roots to develop the structure they need in soil.

Leaf yellowing on the cutting: Some yellowing of the cutting's existing leaf is normal as the plant redirects energy to root development. One yellowing leaf is not a concern. Multiple yellowing leaves or a yellowing stem indicates rot or cold stress.