Care at a glance
- Light: Bright indirect; east or west window; will not bloom in low light
- Water: When top inch of soil dries; never let it sit wet
- Humidity: Prefers 50% or above; benefits from a humidifier
- Temperature: 65 to 80 F (18 to 27 C); cold drafts damage leaves
- Fertilizer: Balanced liquid feed monthly in spring and summer
- Blooming trigger: Cool-dry rest in autumn for 6 to 8 weeks
- Pet safety: Non-toxic to cats and dogs (ASPCA)
What is a lipstick plant?
Lipstick plant (Aeschynanthus radicans) is a tropical epiphyte native to the humid forests of Southeast Asia. In its natural habitat it grows on the branches or trunks of trees rather than in the ground, wrapping its stems around the host plant and drawing nutrients from the air and accumulated debris.
The name comes from the flowers: bright red or orange-red blooms that emerge from dark maroon or almost black tubular calyces, looking like lipstick being pushed up out of a case. The trailing stems, which can reach two feet or more, make it popular as a hanging basket plant. The waxy, dark green leaves are attractive even when the plant is not in flower.
Light
Bright indirect light is non-negotiable for a lipstick plant that blooms. An east-facing window (morning sun) or west-facing window (afternoon sun) is ideal. A south-facing window works if the plant is a few feet back from the glass or shielded by a sheer curtain during the brightest midday hours.
In low light, the plant will survive but it will not produce flowers, and the foliage will become sparse and leggy as stems reach toward the light. If your only available spot is dim, a grow light placed a foot or two above the plant for 12 to 14 hours a day can compensate.
Watering
Water when the top inch of potting mix has dried out. In most indoor conditions during the growing season, this is roughly every 7 to 10 days, though it varies significantly with pot size, mix, light, and season. In winter and during any rest period, allow the soil to dry a bit more between waterings.
Lipstick plant is an epiphyte, meaning its roots evolved to be exposed to air and drain quickly between rains rather than to sit in dense, consistently moist soil. Overwatering is a much more common problem than underwatering. Use a light, well-draining mix (adding perlite to standard potting mix helps) and always use a pot with drainage holes. Never leave the pot sitting in water.
If leaves begin yellowing and dropping from the base up and the stems feel soft near the soil, overwatering and root rot are likely. Repot into fresh dry mix, trim any black or mushy roots, and scale back watering significantly.
Humidity
As a tropical forest plant, lipstick plant prefers humidity of 50 percent or higher. Most heated or air-conditioned homes run at 30 to 40 percent. At low humidity, leaf edges can brown and the plant may drop leaves in winter when dry indoor air is worst.
A small humidifier near the plant is the most reliable fix. Grouping plants together helps marginally because transpiration raises local humidity slightly. Misting is not effective at raising ambient humidity; the water evaporates too quickly and the wet leaf surfaces can encourage fungal problems.
Temperature
Lipstick plant grows best between 65 and 80 F (18 and 27 C). It is sensitive to cold and should be kept away from drafty windows, exterior doors, and air conditioning vents. Temperatures below 50 F (10 C) can cause leaf drop and lasting damage. Do not move the plant outside unless nighttime temperatures are reliably warm.
Fertilizing
Feed monthly during the growing season (spring through summer) with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength. When the plant is setting buds or in bloom, a fertilizer with a slightly higher phosphorus content can support flowering, though a balanced formula also works fine.
Do not fertilize during autumn or winter, especially if the plant is going through a rest period. Fresh potting mix contains enough nutrients for the first few months after repotting; hold off on fertilizing for 4 to 6 weeks following a repot.
How to get a lipstick plant to bloom
Two conditions are required for reliable flowering: adequate light (bright indirect throughout the growing season) and a brief cool-dry rest period in autumn.
In mid to late autumn, reduce watering slightly and move the plant to a cooler spot if possible, around 60 F (15 C). Keep this up for 6 to 8 weeks. This temperature and moisture shift mimics the plant's seasonal pattern in nature and triggers bud formation. After the rest period, move the plant back to warmth and bright light and resume normal watering. Buds should appear within several weeks, and the flowers that follow can persist for weeks to months.
Skipping the rest period is the most common reason a healthy, well-lit lipstick plant does not bloom. A plant that has never flowered indoors almost always just needs this cool-dry signal.
Pruning
Prune after the main flowering period to encourage bushy new growth. Trim stems back by a third to encourage branching; each cut encourages two or more new stems to form below the cut point. Without pruning, lipstick plants become bare and leggy at the base over time as older stems lose their lower leaves.
The cut stem tips can be used as propagation cuttings: take a 4 to 6 inch cutting just below a node, remove the lower leaves, and root in moist perlite or a very light potting mix. Rooting usually takes 3 to 5 weeks with warmth and humidity.
Repotting
Repot when roots emerge from drainage holes or the plant dries out unusually fast after watering. Go up only 1 to 2 inches in pot diameter. Lipstick plant blooms more readily when slightly rootbound, so there is no need to rush into a larger pot. Spring is the best time to repot.
Use a light, fast-draining mix: standard potting soil mixed with perlite at a 1:1 ratio or an orchid-bark-based mix both work well for this epiphytic plant.
Common problems
Yellowing leaves: Most often overwatering or low humidity. Check the soil and root health first. If roots are brown and mushy, root rot has set in and the plant needs a fresh start in dry mix.
Leaf drop: Cold drafts, drastic temperature change, or very low humidity. Check placement relative to vents and exterior windows.
No flowers despite good light: The plant almost certainly did not experience a cool-dry rest period. Provide 6 to 8 weeks of reduced watering and cooler temperatures in autumn.
Brown leaf tips: Low humidity or fluoride sensitivity. Switching to filtered water or letting tap water sit overnight before watering can help if the leaves are otherwise healthy.
Pests: Mealybugs and spider mites occasionally appear, especially in dry conditions. Inspect regularly and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil at the first sign of infestation.