At a glance
- Leaves bronzed and stippled with fine webbing present: Spider mites; treat with insecticidal soap and blast with water
- Leaves silvery-streaked and distorted, buds damaged: Thrips; treat with spinosad
- Flowers turning green and leafy, leaves yellowing: Aster yellows; remove and destroy plant
- New growth curling with small insects on undersides: Aphids; treat with insecticidal soap
- Leaves wilting and curling in afternoon heat with dry soil: Drought stress; water consistently
Why marigold leaves curl
Marigolds (Tagetes species, including French marigold, African marigold, and signet marigold) are among the most popular summer bedding plants and are often planted as pest deterrents around vegetables. They are generally tough and easy to grow, but their pungent foliage, while repelling some pests, does not prevent spider mite infestations, and they are highly susceptible to both spider mites and thrips in hot, dry summers. Aster yellows disease causes some of the most dramatic symptoms seen on any plant, turning the flowers into green leafy structures, and is unfortunately incurable.
Cause 1: Spider mites
Signs: The leaves have a pale, dusty, stippled, or bronzed appearance. Fine silken webbing is present between leaves and at stem joints. The leaves are curling and the plant looks dull. The damage intensifies through the summer and is worst during hot, dry spells. Tiny moving dots are visible on the leaf undersides when the leaf is held to light.
Why it happens: Marigolds are a particularly favored host plant for the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), despite the plant's reputation as a pest deterrent. Spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions and reproduce rapidly; a single female can produce hundreds of eggs. The population can explode from unnoticeable to severe within 2 to 3 weeks under summer heat. Drought-stressed marigolds are more susceptible to mite damage.
Fix: Blast the plant with a strong jet of water to dislodge mites and remove webbing, then immediately apply insecticidal soap or neem oil to all leaf surfaces, paying particular attention to the undersides. Repeat every 5 to 7 days for 3 to 4 applications. Increase watering to reduce plant stress. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides that kill predatory mites. In gardens with recurring mite problems, introducing predatory mites (Phytoseiulus persimilis) early in the season provides effective long-term biological control.
Cause 2: Thrips
Signs: The leaves and especially the developing flower buds have silvery, streaked, or scarred patches. The affected tissue is distorted and the leaves near the buds may curl. The flowers, when they open, have distorted or scarred petals with brown streaking. Tiny elongated insects (about 1 millimeter, yellowish or brown) are visible inside the flowers and in the curled leaf folds with a magnifying glass.
Why it happens: Western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) and onion thrips (Thrips tabaci) are the most common species on marigolds. They are attracted to the flowers and feed within the developing buds, causing the characteristic silver cell damage to the petals and distortion to the young leaves. Thrips are difficult to see without magnification and are often only suspected when the damage pattern is noticed. They are most damaging during warm, dry conditions.
Fix: Apply spinosad to the buds and leaves before they open, when the insects are most accessible. Blue or yellow sticky traps help monitor and reduce adult thrips populations. Reflective silver mulch deters thrips from landing on plants. Remove and dispose of heavily damaged buds to eliminate insects completing their life cycle within the bud. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides, which also kill the predatory insects that provide natural thrips control.
Cause 3: Aster yellows
Signs: The flower petals are turning green and taking on a leafy texture rather than developing their normal orange or yellow color. The leaves are yellowing and the plant is stunted. New growth emerging from the center of the plant may be distorted and unusually upright or witches-broom in appearance. The symptoms affect the whole plant and cannot be reversed by any change in care.
Why it happens: Aster yellows is caused by a phytoplasma (Candidatus Phytoplasma asteris) transmitted by the aster leafhopper (Macrosteles quadrilineatus). The phytoplasma interferes with the plant's hormone signaling, causing the dramatic virescence (greening) of petals and the general distortion and decline. Marigolds are among the most susceptible ornamental plants. The leafhopper feeds on many weed species that serve as phytoplasma reservoirs and moves the disease to garden plants.
What to do: Remove and destroy infected plants immediately to prevent leafhoppers from feeding on them and spreading the phytoplasma to healthy plants. Do not compost affected plants. Control leafhoppers in the garden by removing weed hosts (particularly plantain and wild carrot), using reflective silver mulch, and applying insecticides when leafhopper populations are high. There is no treatment and no resistant variety of marigold available.
Cause 4: Aphids
Signs: New growth at the stem tips and developing buds has clusters of small soft-bodied insects, often green, black, or yellowish. The young leaves are curling downward around the colony. Sticky honeydew makes the affected stems and leaves shiny. Ants are climbing the stems to farm the colony. The damage is concentrated on the softest new growth.
Why it happens: Several aphid species feed on marigolds, with green peach aphids and black bean aphids among the most common. They colonize the growing tips and feed on the sap, injecting saliva that causes the new leaves to curl. Large infestations can distort new growth and reduce flowering, but marigolds are generally resilient enough to tolerate moderate aphid pressure without significant long-term damage.
Fix: A strong blast of water dislodges aphid colonies effectively and is often sufficient for light to moderate infestations. Apply insecticidal soap for heavier infestations, focusing on the growing tips. Repeat every 5 to 7 days as needed. Encouraging natural predators such as ladybugs and parasitic wasps by avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides provides effective long-term control.
Cause 5: Drought stress
Signs: The leaves are wilting and curling during hot afternoons, with the lower leaves showing the most stress first. The soil is dry. The flowers may wilt and the plant may drop buds. The symptoms recover after watering. Container marigolds are most susceptible, as pots dry out rapidly in summer heat.
Why it happens: Marigolds are more drought-tolerant than many bedding plants but still wilt and curl their leaves when the soil dries out completely during hot weather. Plants in small containers or in sandy soil are particularly susceptible. Drought stress also increases susceptibility to spider mite damage, as the stressed plants are more nutritious to mites and less able to mount defenses.
Fix: Water consistently, keeping the soil evenly moist. In containers, this may mean watering daily during summer heat. Apply mulch around garden marigolds to retain soil moisture. Water at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry. Deadhead regularly to encourage continued flowering and reduce the plant's water demand relative to its root system.