Should I cut yellow leaves off my monstera?

Yes. Yellow monstera leaves will not turn green again and can be removed. Cut the petiole (leaf stem) close to the main stem using clean scissors or pruning shears. A leaf that is more than half yellow can be removed; a leaf that is slightly yellowing at the edges but still mostly green is still photosynthesizing and can stay on the plant. After removing yellowed leaves, monitor whether new leaves emerge healthy: new healthy growth while old damaged leaves are removed is a sign the plant is recovering.

Can overwatering cause monstera leaves to split less?

Yes, indirectly. Overwatering leads to root rot, which compromises the plant's overall health. A monstera under stress from root damage grows more slowly and often produces smaller, less mature leaves that do not develop fenestrations (holes and splits). Healthy, fast-growing monstera in good conditions and appropriate light produce the largest, most fenestrated leaves. Fixing overwatering and providing better light are the two most impactful changes for leaf quality.

How often should I water monstera?

Water monstera when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. In typical indoor conditions this is every 7 to 10 days in summer and every 10 to 14 days in winter, but always check the soil rather than watering on a fixed schedule. Monstera prefers consistent moisture without sitting in wet soil. In low light, it uses water very slowly and the interval between waterings naturally lengthens. Overwatering in low light is extremely common with monstera; when in doubt, wait another few days before watering.

Monstera Yellow Leaves — Causes and How to Fix Them

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At a glance

Most common cause: Overwatering; wet soil + yellow leaves = check for root rot
Natural aging: One lower or outer leaf yellowing slowly every few months; normal
Low light: All leaves pale and lime-green; slow growth; no fenestrations
Nutrient deficiency: Yellowing between green veins after long periods without fertilizing
Root bound: Rapid yellowing when roots are tightly packed and soil dries very fast
Yellow leaves: Permanent; remove and fix the cause for healthy new growth

Why monstera yellows and what it tells you

Monstera deliciosa is among the most popular houseplants precisely because it is adaptable and forgiving. When it yellows, the signal is real: something in the care routine has been off long enough to show in the leaves. Because yellowing can look similar across different causes, diagnosing by location (which leaves, where on the leaf) and soil condition (wet or dry) is essential before acting.

Cause 1: Overwatering and root rot (most common)

Signs: Yellowing beginning with lower or older leaves. The soil is damp or wet when pressed a couple of inches deep. The pot is heavy. The yellowing may come with soft spots on the stem base or a musty smell. In advanced cases, multiple leaves are yellowing simultaneously and the plant looks generally unwell.

Why it happens: Monstera roots need oxygen. Soil that stays consistently wet creates anaerobic conditions where root rot fungi thrive. As roots die, they cannot deliver water or nutrients, and leaves yellow. This is worsened by low light (which slows water use) and large pots (which hold more moisture than the plant needs).

What to do: Stop watering. If yellowing is progressing or stem bases feel soft, remove the plant from the pot. Inspect roots: healthy roots are firm and white to tan; rotted roots are brown, black, or mushy. Trim all rotted material with clean scissors. Repot in fresh, well-draining potting mix and do not water for 1 to 2 weeks. Going forward, water only when the top 2 inches of soil are dry.

Cause 2: Natural aging

Signs: A single older leaf, often one of the lowest on the plant or attached at the base of the main stem, yellows gradually over 2 to 4 weeks. The rest of the plant is healthy. New leaves are emerging at the growing tips. Soil moisture is normal.

Why it happens: Monstera regularly sheds its oldest leaves as it grows upward and outward. Outer and lower leaves age out and are replaced by the new growth at the tips. One or two leaves per year yellowing this way is entirely normal.

What to do: Remove the yellowed leaf at the petiole and continue normal care. If the rate increases to more than two or three leaves per growing season, investigate another cause.

Cause 3: Low light

Signs: All leaves gradually look pale, washed-out, or lime-green rather than deep rich green. New leaves emerge small and without fenestrations (no holes or splits). The plant is far from a window or in a north-facing room with minimal natural light. Growth is very slow or stalled.

Why it happens: Monstera is often described as tolerating low light, and it can survive in dim conditions, but it cannot thrive. In low light it reduces chlorophyll production (the green pigment), causing overall pallor rather than individual leaf yellowing. It also stops producing the splits and holes that make it distinctive.

What to do: Move to a spot with bright indirect light, ideally within a few feet of a large window. Monstera particularly benefits from morning direct sun (east-facing windows). Avoid harsh afternoon direct sun on mature plants, which can bleach and scorch the leaves.

Cause 4: Nutrient deficiency

Signs: Yellowing between the veins of the leaf while the veins themselves stay green (interveinal chlorosis). The pattern is distinctive and different from the uniform yellowing of overwatering. More likely in a plant that has been in the same pot without fertilizing for 2 or more years, or in a very small amount of soil relative to the plant's size.

Why it happens: Potting soil nutrients deplete over time. Monstera is a moderate to heavy feeder during the growing season and benefits from fertilizing monthly in spring and summer.

What to do: Feed with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength once a month from spring through summer. If the plant has been in the same soil for several years, repotting into fresh mix restores nutrients more effectively than fertilizing alone.

Cause 5: Root bound

Signs: Yellowing combined with the soil drying out very rapidly after watering (within a day or two). Roots are visibly coming out of the drainage holes or circling densely when you tip the pot. The plant was last repotted more than 2 years ago.

Why it happens: A severely root-bound monstera runs out of soil nutrient supply and struggles to take up adequate water evenly. The dense root mass dries unevenly and the plant experiences alternating wet and dry stress that causes leaf yellowing.

What to do: Repot into a pot 2 inches larger in diameter, using fresh potting mix. Spring is the best time to repot, but a severely root-bound plant can be repotted any time of year. After repotting, water thoroughly and resume normal care.

Monstera Yellow Leaves