At a glance
- Leaves curling upward at the edges with dry soil: Underwatering; water thoroughly
- Leaves curling under or toward the stem in a bright spot: Too much direct sun; move to bright indirect light
- Leaf edges curling and drying in heated air: Low humidity; increase to 40%+ with a humidifier
- Leaves curling near a cold window or vent: Cold temperatures or draft; move to warmth above 60°F
- Lower leaves yellowing and remaining leaves drooping: Overwatering or root rot; let dry and check roots
Why pilea leaves curl
Pilea peperomioides, the Chinese money plant, has become one of the most popular houseplants of the last decade, prized for its unusual round, flat leaves on thin petioles. Those distinctive pancake-shaped leaves are also one of the plant's most expressive features: when conditions are right, they hold themselves nearly flat and slightly concave, like small lily pads on a stem. When something is wrong, they curl, cup, or fold in specific ways that point to the cause. Underwatering produces an upward curl at the leaf edges, sometimes called a taco shape. Too much direct sun causes a downward curl or folding toward the stem. Low humidity dries the edges. Cold causes general inward curling. Reading the direction and character of the curl is the fastest path to diagnosing the problem.
Cause 1: Underwatering
Signs: Leaves are curling upward at the edges or folding inward lengthwise. The soil is dry. The pot is lightweight. The curling appeared after a gap in watering or during hot weather when the soil dried faster than expected. The leaves may feel slightly less firm than usual.
Why it happens: Pilea prefers evenly moist soil and responds to drought by curling its leaves upward at the edges — the plant's way of reducing the surface area losing water through transpiration. Pilea is moderately drought-tolerant compared to some tropical plants, but allowing the soil to dry out completely triggers visible leaf curling and, if prolonged, can cause the lower leaves to drop.
Fix: Water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom of the pot. The leaves should begin to flatten within 24 to 48 hours. Going forward, water when the top inch of soil is dry but before the lower soil dries out completely. In moderate indirect light, this is typically every 7 to 10 days in summer and every 10 to 14 days in winter. Pilea also appreciates being rotated a quarter turn each time it is watered to keep growth even on all sides.
Cause 2: Too much direct sunlight
Signs: Leaves are curling under or folding toward the stem. The plant is positioned in direct sunlight, particularly from a south or west window. The most exposed leaves are the most curled. The leaves may also be bleaching to a pale green or yellow in the areas of most sun exposure.
Why it happens: Pilea prefers bright indirect light. In direct sun, the leaves overheat and the plant curls them under to reduce their exposure to the light source and to slow water loss. Prolonged direct sun bleaches the chlorophyll and causes permanent pale patches. Even a few hours of intense afternoon sun can trigger curling and light damage in pilea.
Fix: Move to a position with bright indirect light. A spot several feet from a south or west window, or directly in front of a north or east window, is ideal. A sheer curtain will filter direct sun if the plant must stay near a bright window. The curl from sun stress should ease within a few days of being moved to appropriate light. Bleached patches will not recover in existing leaves, but new growth in proper light will be a healthy deep green.
Cause 3: Low humidity
Signs: Leaf edges are curling upward and may be drying slightly. The indoor air is dry, especially in winter with heating or in air-conditioned rooms. The soil moisture is fine but edge curling and drying persists. The damage is dry rather than soft or yellow.
Why it happens: Pilea is native to the humid forests of Yunnan Province in China and does best above 40% humidity. In typical heated indoor air in winter, humidity can fall to 20 to 30%, causing the leaf edges to lose moisture faster than the roots can supply it. The edges curl upward and may eventually become dry and brown at the very tip. Pilea is more tolerant of moderate dryness than many tropical plants, but extended periods of very low humidity show up in the leaf margins.
Fix: Increase humidity using a humidifier near the plant. Maintain above 40%. Keep the plant away from heating vents and radiators. Grouping several plants together raises local humidity slightly through transpiration. Existing dry, curled edges will not recover, but new growth in higher humidity will emerge with flat, healthy margins.
Cause 4: Cold temperatures and drafts
Signs: Leaves are curling inward and the plant is positioned near a cold window, exterior wall, or air conditioning vent. Temperatures in the space drop below 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The curling appeared suddenly or worsened in cooler weather.
Why it happens: Pilea grows best between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, root function slows and the leaves curl inward as water supply to the leaf cells decreases. Cold drafts from air conditioning vents or cold windows cause the leaf surface to cool and desiccate rapidly, producing curling concentrated on the most exposed leaves. Cold damage below about 50 degrees Fahrenheit can cause soft, dark patches on the affected tissue.
Fix: Move to a consistently warm location above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep away from cold windows in winter and air conditioning vents in summer. Cold-damaged tissue will not recover, but new growth in consistently warm conditions will be healthy. Stress-related curling without direct tissue damage should ease within 1 to 2 weeks of stable warm conditions.
Cause 5: Overwatering and root rot
Signs: Lower leaves are yellowing and dropping. Remaining leaves may be drooping or curling downward. The soil has been consistently wet. The plant has been watered frequently. Roots, when inspected, are dark and mushy. The pot smells musty.
Why it happens: Pilea is prone to root rot in consistently wet soil. Root rot destroys the roots' ability to supply water and nutrients to the leaves, causing them to yellow, drop, and droop even though the soil is wet. Pilea shows overwatering primarily as leaf drop from the bottom up combined with yellowing, rather than the dramatic inward curl seen with drought or cold.
Fix: Allow the soil to dry out significantly between waterings. If root rot has developed, remove from the pot, trim all dark and mushy roots to firm, white tissue, and repot in fresh, well-draining potting mix with added perlite. Ensure the pot has drainage holes. Recovery takes 4 to 6 weeks. Going forward, allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry between waterings and never leave the pot sitting in a saucer of standing water.