Begonia Care Guide
Over 2,000 begonia species exist, and the three most common types grown indoors each have different habits and different needs. Knowing which type you have is the first step.
Know your begonia type
- Wax begonia (B. semperflorens): compact, round leaves (green or bronze); flowers almost year-round; the most forgiving type
- Rex begonia (B. rex-cultorum): large, dramatic, heavily patterned leaves; grown for foliage, not flowers; needs more humidity
- Cane begonia (angel wing): tall, bamboo-like stems; spotted or patterned leaves; clusters of drooping flowers; can grow several feet tall
- Tuberous begonia (B. tuberhybrida): large showy flowers; goes dormant in winter; treated differently from the others
Wax begonias
Wax begonias (Begonia semperflorens) are named for the slightly waxy, glossy surface of their round leaves, which come in solid green or a rich bronze-burgundy. They are one of the most reliably blooming houseplants available: in good conditions, they produce clusters of small flowers in pink, red, or white almost continuously throughout the year.
Light
Bright indirect light is ideal, with a couple of hours of direct morning sun encouraging the best blooming. An east-facing window is perfect. They tolerate more direct sun than rex begonias and can even handle a few hours of direct west sun if humidity is adequate. In lower light, blooming slows and the plant becomes leggy.
Watering
Let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings. Wax begonias tolerate slight drought better than rex begonias and are forgiving of occasional missed waterings. Overwatering causes root rot quickly. Always use a pot with drainage holes.
Humidity and air circulation
Average household humidity (40 to 50%) is adequate. Good air circulation around wax begonias is important to prevent powdery mildew, a common fungal issue that shows as white, dusty patches on the leaves. Keep plants spaced apart and avoid misting directly on the leaves.
Deadheading
Pinch off spent blooms as they fade to keep the plant tidy and redirect energy to new flowers. Wax begonias tend to self-clean reasonably well but look neater and bloom more prolifically with regular deadheading.
Rex begonias
Rex begonias (Begonia rex-cultorum) are grown almost entirely for their foliage, which is among the most dramatic of any houseplant. Leaves can be silver, dark burgundy, bright green, pink, copper, or combinations of all of these, often with contrasting bands, spots, and spiraling patterns. The flowers are small and relatively insignificant compared to the leaves.
Light
Rex begonias prefer lower light than other begonias — bright indirect light but no direct sun, which can bleach and scorch their leaves. An east or north window works well. This makes them one of the few flowering (or ornamental) plants that genuinely tolerates lower-light conditions while maintaining their appearance.
Watering
Allow the top inch of soil to dry, but do not let rex begonias dry out completely between waterings. Their relatively shallow root systems and thin leaves make them more sensitive to prolonged drought than wax begonias. At the same time, they are very sensitive to soggy soil and root rot. Water at the base of the plant rather than on the leaves, which spot easily.
Humidity
Rex begonias need higher humidity than wax begonias, ideally 50% or above. Low humidity causes leaf edges to turn brown and crispy. A pebble tray of water or a humidifier helps significantly, particularly in winter. Avoid misting directly on the leaves, as water sitting on the leaf surface in low-airflow conditions encourages bacterial and fungal spots.
Dormancy
Rex begonias sometimes go through a semi-dormant period in winter, producing fewer new leaves and appearing to stall. Reduce watering slightly during this period and resume normal care in spring when new growth begins. This is normal and not a sign of decline.
Cane begonias (angel wing begonias)
Cane begonias get their name from their bamboo-like stems with distinct nodes. The most well-known type is the angel wing begonia, with asymmetrical, wing-shaped leaves that are often spotted silver or white on dark green, and red or deep purple on the underside. They produce large, drooping clusters of flowers in pink, red, orange, or white.
Cane begonias grow tall — often 2 to 4 feet or more — and are best displayed in a spot where their height and dramatic blooms can be appreciated. Care is similar to wax begonias: bright indirect light with some direct morning sun, top inch of soil dry between waterings, and good air circulation.
General begonia care
Fertilizing
Feed monthly during spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength. For wax and cane begonias that you want to encourage to bloom heavily, a fertilizer with a slightly higher middle number (phosphorus) such as 5-10-5 applied once a month can increase flower production. Stop or reduce fertilizing in fall and winter.
Soil and repotting
A well-draining potting mix is essential. Adding perlite to standard potting mix (roughly 30% perlite) improves drainage and reduces the risk of root rot. Begonias generally prefer to be slightly root-bound and do not need frequent repotting. Repot only when roots are circling the pot or emerging from drainage holes, going up one pot size at a time.
Propagation
Wax and cane begonias propagate readily from stem cuttings in water or moist soil. Take a 3 to 4 inch cutting just below a node, remove lower leaves, and root in water or moist potting mix. Rex begonias can be propagated from leaf cuttings: cut a healthy leaf into sections, each including a vein, and press gently into moist propagating mix. New plantlets emerge from the cut veins in 4 to 6 weeks.
Toxicity
All begonias are toxic to cats, dogs, and horses. The roots and tubers contain the highest concentration of toxins, but the leaves and stems are also harmful if ingested. Keep begonias out of reach of pets.
Common problems
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Powdery white coating on leaves | Powdery mildew (fungal) | Improve air circulation; avoid wetting leaves; remove affected leaves; treat with diluted neem oil |
| Brown, crispy leaf edges | Low humidity or underwatering | Increase humidity; water more consistently |
| Yellow leaves | Overwatering | Allow top inch to dry before watering; ensure drainage |
| Leggy, few leaves | Insufficient light | Move to brighter window; pinch tips to encourage branching |
| No flowers | Low light or excess nitrogen | Move to brighter spot; switch to lower-nitrogen, higher-phosphorus fertilizer |
| Brown spots on leaves | Water on leaves; bacterial/fungal spot | Water at base only; improve air circulation; remove affected leaves |
Frequently asked questions
How often should I water a begonia?
Let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings. Wax begonias tolerate slightly more drying out; rex begonias should not be allowed to dry out completely. All begonias hate soggy soil — use pots with drainage holes and never leave them sitting in water.
Are begonias toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes. All begonias are toxic to cats, dogs, and horses. The roots contain the highest concentration of toxins, but all parts can cause vomiting and drooling if ingested. Keep them out of reach of pets.
Why is my begonia leggy?
Legginess is caused by insufficient light. Move the plant to a brighter window and pinch back growing tips to encourage branching. Wax and cane begonias especially need bright indirect light with some morning sun to maintain compact growth and flower well.
How do I get my begonia to rebloom?
Wax begonias bloom nearly continuously with adequate light. Deadhead spent flowers, ensure the plant gets bright indirect light with some direct morning sun, and fertilize monthly with a balanced or slightly high-phosphorus fertilizer during the growing season.