At a glance
- Shoot tips curled and matted with insect clusters: Aphids; water blast, insecticidal soap
- Stunted plant, leaves curling and yellowing, flowers turning green: Aster yellows; remove plant immediately, control leafhoppers
- Tiny wedge-shaped insects that hop off when plant is disturbed, stippled leaves: Leafhoppers; reflective mulch, row covers on young plants
- Leaves bronzed and stippled, curling in hot dry weather, fine webbing: Spider mites; neem oil, increase watering
- White powdery coating on leaves curling in late summer: Powdery mildew; improve air circulation, neem oil
Why cosmos leaves curl
Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus and Cosmos sulphureus) are fast-growing half-hardy annuals from Mexico valued for their airy, finely divided foliage and cheerful daisy-like flowers in pink, white, red, and orange from midsummer through frost. They are among the easiest annuals to grow from seed, thriving in full sun and poor to average, well-drained soil; overly rich soil produces lush foliage at the expense of flowers. Cosmos prefers lean conditions and is among the annuals most tolerant of summer heat and drought once established. Its main problems are pest-related rather than cultural: aphids are common on the soft growing tips, and aster yellows is the most serious disease threat, capable of destroying an entire planting rapidly.
Cause 1: Aphids
Signs: The shoot tips curl downward and mat together. Dense colonies of small, soft-bodied insects cluster on the stem tips and undersides of the finely divided leaves. The affected growth is sticky with honeydew. Several aphid species attack cosmos; the black bean aphid (Aphis fabae) and peach aphid (Myzus persicae) are the most common. Black sooty mold may develop on honeydew deposits in heavy infestations. The damage is worst in cool, settled spring and early summer weather before natural predators establish.
Why it happens: Cosmos's succulent new growth is highly attractive to aphids. The finely divided, fern-like leaf structure creates a complex, sheltered microhabitat within the growing tips where aphid colonies build rapidly, protected from wind and from predators that hunt by sight. Young seedlings and transplants are most vulnerable in the period before the plant reaches its full, robust size and before natural predator populations build.
Fix: Blast aphid colonies from the shoot tips with a strong jet of water, repeating every few days. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil for persistent infestations, directing the spray into the curled growing tips. Cosmos grows quickly and usually outgrows spring aphid damage as the season progresses. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides that eliminate natural predators including ladybirds, lacewings, and parasitic wasps, which are highly effective against aphids by midsummer.
Cause 2: Aster yellows
Signs: The plant is severely stunted. The leaves curl, yellow, and show abnormal growth with excessive branching. Most distinctively, the flowers fail to develop normally: the petals turn green and leaf-like (virescence) and the center of the flower may develop into a cluster of tiny leaf-like structures (phyllody). The symptoms are present throughout the plant and do not improve. All infected plants look similar regardless of cosmos variety. The disease can affect a whole planting rapidly if leafhoppers are numerous.
Why it happens: Aster yellows is caused by a phytoplasma, a bacteria-like organism that lives inside plant cells and phloem tissue. It is transmitted exclusively by the aster leafhopper (Macrosteles quadrilineatus), which acquires the phytoplasma while feeding on infected plants and then spreads it to healthy plants. The phytoplasma disrupts plant hormone balance, producing the characteristic abnormal growth. Cosmos is one of the most susceptible annual flowers. Once a plant is infected, the phytoplasma is systemic and there is no cure.
Fix: Remove and discard all infected plants immediately in the trash; do not compost. Rapid removal reduces the number of infected plants that leafhoppers can acquire phytoplasma from and spread to remaining healthy plants. Prevent leafhopper feeding on young transplants with floating row covers or reflective aluminum mulch on the soil surface, which disorients leafhoppers before they land. There are no cosmos cultivars with known aster yellows resistance. Avoid planting cosmos near known aster yellows hosts including rudbeckia, echinacea, and aster.
Cause 3: Leafhoppers
Signs: The leaves develop a fine stippling or bleaching on the upper surface as the feeding sites of individual insects dry out. The foliage may curl and look generally pale and unhealthy. The insects themselves are small (3 to 4 mm), pale greenish-yellow, and wedge-shaped; they hop or fly off explosively when the plant is disturbed. Yellow sticky traps in the garden capture leafhoppers and help monitor population levels. The secondary risk of leafhopper feeding is far greater than the direct damage: even a brief feeding bout can transmit aster yellows phytoplasma to a healthy plant.
Why it happens: The aster leafhopper migrates into gardens in spring and summer, often in large numbers during years when populations build in agricultural areas. Cosmos's open, airy growth habit provides good access for leafhoppers to feed throughout the canopy. Leafhoppers are particularly difficult to control because they disperse rapidly when disturbed and because a very short feeding period is sufficient to transmit phytoplasma.
Fix: Floating row covers over young transplants before leafhoppers arrive in the garden provide the best physical barrier. Reflective aluminum mulch on the soil surface disorients leafhoppers and reduces landing rates. Remove row covers once flowers need pollinating. Yellow sticky traps monitor pressure but do not reduce populations significantly. Contact insecticides applied to the foliage knock down populations temporarily but cannot prevent all transmission, and recolonization from surrounding areas is rapid.
Cause 4: Spider mites
Signs: The fine, pinnate leaves lose their fresh green color and take on a bronzed, dull, or dusty appearance. Fine stippling covers the leaf surface where individual mites have punctured cells. The leaves curl and the plant looks stressed despite adequate watering. Fine webbing appears between leaf bases in heavy infestations. Spider mites on cosmos are most common in hot, dry spells in midsummer and are worst on plants under drought stress.
Why it happens: Two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) thrive in hot, dry conditions. Cosmos planted in very exposed, dry positions, or allowed to experience drought stress, is more vulnerable to mite buildup than well-watered plants. The fine leaf structure provides a large total surface area for mite feeding. Unlike many host plants, cosmos does not have heavy leaf hairs that would impede mite movement.
Fix: Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap to both surfaces of all leaves, targeting the undersides where mites concentrate. Repeat every five to seven days for three applications. Increase watering frequency during hot spells to reduce plant stress. A strong jet of water from above dislodges mites from the foliage and is particularly effective on the finely divided cosmos leaves. Natural predatory mites become active in the garden when two-spotted mite populations build and help suppress infestations without intervention.
Cause 5: Powdery mildew
Signs: A white powdery coating develops on the leaf surfaces and stems in late summer, particularly on older leaves lower on the plant. The affected leaves curl and may yellow and drop. Powdery mildew on cosmos is less severe than on some other susceptible plants; it typically occurs late in the season when the plant is already declining and has less impact on flower production than other causes. Plants in sheltered positions with poor air circulation are most affected.
Why it happens: Powdery mildew fungi infect cosmos in warm, humid conditions with poor air movement. Cosmos planted densely or in sheltered spots where air stagnates is more susceptible. The disease is most common in late summer as the growing season lengthens and the basal foliage ages. Unlike aster yellows, powdery mildew rarely prevents cosmos from continuing to flower even on affected plants.
Fix: Improve air circulation by spacing plants adequately from the outset; cosmos's finely divided foliage means it can be grown relatively closely, but very dense planting increases mildew risk. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate at the first sign of infection. Remove severely affected lower leaves. In late-season plantings, the mildew is often cosmetically acceptable since the plants will be killed by frost before long. Cosmos sulphureus cultivars tend to be somewhat more mildew-resistant than C. bipinnatus.