Should I fertilize monstera to make it grow faster?

Fertilizing during the growing season (spring through summer) supports faster growth in monstera, but only if other conditions are already adequate. Light is the primary driver of growth: a monstera in low light will not grow noticeably faster with fertilizer because it lacks the energy to use the nutrients. In bright indirect light with consistent watering, a balanced liquid fertilizer applied monthly from spring through late summer makes a meaningful difference in leaf production and leaf size. Do not fertilize in winter when the plant is dormant or growing very slowly, as unused nutrients accumulate in the soil as mineral salts.

Why is my monstera making new leaves but they are small and not splitting?

Small, unsplit leaves on monstera indicate that the plant is not getting enough light. Fenestrations (the characteristic holes and splits) develop in response to the plant's strategy for growing toward the forest canopy: larger leaves with gaps are more efficient in dappled high-light conditions. In low light, the plant produces smaller, simpler leaves because producing large, fenestrated leaves is energy-expensive. Moving the plant to a brighter spot with more indirect light (or giving it a moss pole to climb, since climbing triggers the production of larger mature leaves) will result in progressively larger, more divided leaves over time.

Monstera Not Growing — Why It Stopped and How to Fix It

Q: How fast should monstera grow?

In good conditions during the growing season (spring through summer), monstera deliciosa typically produces one new leaf every 4 to 6 weeks. In very bright indirect light with consistent care, some plants push a new leaf every 3 to 4 weeks. In lower light or in winter, one leaf every 2 to 3 months or slower is normal. Young plants under 1 foot tall grow more slowly than mature plants with established root systems. If you are seeing a new leaf every couple of months during summer and the plant is otherwise healthy, that rate is within the normal range; it may simply need better light to grow faster.

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At a glance

No new leaves in summer: Insufficient light is the most likely cause; move closer to a window
No growth in winter: Normal seasonal dormancy; growth resumes in spring
Roots visible at pot bottom: Root-bound; time to repot into a larger container
Small, unfenestrated new leaves: Low light; the plant needs more to produce split leaves
Growth stopped after repotting: Transplant adjustment; can take 4 to 8 weeks to resume
No fertilizing ever: Nutrient depletion in old soil; begin monthly fertilizing in spring

How fast should monstera grow?

In good conditions, monstera deliciosa produces roughly one new leaf every 4 to 6 weeks during spring and summer. Each new leaf unfurls from a tight roll, gradually expands, and may take another week to fully flatten and harden. In winter, growth slows significantly or stops entirely as the plant responds to reduced light and lower temperatures. If growth has stalled during the active season, something in the plant's conditions is limiting it.

Reason 1: Insufficient light (most common)

Monstera is a forest understory plant, but it is not a low-light plant. In the wild it climbs toward the upper canopy, seeking bright filtered light. Indoors, the difference between a dim corner and a well-lit spot near a window is often the difference between a plant that grows actively and one that sits static for months.

Signs: No new growth despite it being spring or summer. Existing leaves are healthy but the plant has not produced a new leaf in 2 or more months. The plant is positioned away from windows or in a room with minimal natural light.

Fix: Move the plant within 3 to 5 feet of a south or east-facing window. Bright indirect light is ideal; some morning direct sun is beneficial. Monstera in bright indirect light typically resumes growth within 2 to 4 weeks of the move. If natural light is limited, a grow light positioned above the plant for 10 to 12 hours daily is an effective supplement.

Reason 2: Winter dormancy

Monstera naturally slows or stops growing in winter, even in perfectly stable indoor conditions. Shorter days with less total light hours and slightly lower temperatures both signal the plant to conserve energy. A monstera that produced one leaf per month in summer may go 2 to 3 months without new growth in winter. This is not a problem.

Signs: Growth stopped or slowed significantly in autumn or winter. The plant is otherwise healthy: no yellowing, no drooping, leaves are firm and glossy.

Fix: None needed. Reduce watering frequency and stop fertilizing in winter. Growth will resume on its own as light increases in late winter and spring. If you want to minimize dormancy, a grow light extending the photoperiod to 12 hours daily helps maintain some year-round growth.

Reason 3: Root-bound pot

A severely root-bound monstera redirects energy to managing its packed root system rather than producing new leaves. Water passes through the pot quickly, roots circle and compress, and nutrient uptake becomes less efficient.

Signs: Roots are visibly growing out of drainage holes, circling the surface of the soil, or visible as a dense mass when you check the base of the pot. The plant has been in the same pot for 2 or more years. Soil dries out very fast after watering.

Fix: Repot into a container 2 to 3 inches wider in diameter with fresh potting mix. Monstera benefits from a well-draining mix: standard potting soil with added perlite (3 parts to 1 part) works well. After repotting, give the plant 4 to 8 weeks to settle before expecting new growth.

Reason 4: Overwatering

A monstera with damaged roots from overwatering cannot absorb nutrients and water efficiently, which stalls growth. The plant may look otherwise stable for a period while root damage progresses, before other symptoms like yellowing and leaf drop appear.

Signs: Growth has stopped and the soil stays wet for more than 10 to 14 days after watering. You may also notice yellowing lower leaves. The pot feels heavy. There may be a sour or musty smell from the soil.

Fix: Let the soil dry out substantially. Water only when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. If you suspect root rot (brown, soft roots), unpot and treat as described in the root rot guide. Growth will resume once the root system recovers.

Reason 5: Nutrient depletion

Potting mix nutrients are consumed by the plant and leach out with each watering. After 12 to 18 months in the same soil without fertilizing, the mix may be nutritionally depleted. Monstera needs nitrogen for leaf growth, and a nitrogen-deficient plant grows slowly and produces pale, small new leaves.

Signs: Slow growth despite adequate light. New leaves emerge smaller than previous leaves and may be paler. The plant has been in the same pot for over a year and has never been fertilized.

Fix: Begin fertilizing with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer (such as 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 diluted to half strength) once per month from spring through late summer. Alternatively, repotting in fresh potting mix restores nutrients without additional fertilizing for the first 6 to 12 months.

Reason 6: Temperature or location stress

Monstera slows or stops growing in temperatures below 60°F, near cold drafts from windows in winter, or near heating or cooling vents that create extreme temperature swings. A recent move to a new location also causes a temporary adjustment period during which growth may pause.

Signs: Growth stopped after a change in the plant's position. The plant is near a vent, exterior wall, or frequently opened door. Temperatures in the room drop significantly at night.

Fix: Keep monstera in stable temperatures between 65 and 85°F, away from drafts and vents. After moving the plant, allow 4 to 8 weeks for it to adjust to the new conditions before evaluating growth rate.

Monstera Not Growing