Philodendron care guide

Vining vs. upright philodendrons

Philodendron is a massive genus with two very different growth habits. Knowing which type you have helps set expectations for how it grows and where to place it.

Vining philodendrons climb or trail. The heartleaf philodendron (P. hederaceum) is the most common, with small heart-shaped leaves on long trailing stems. Brasil, Micans, and Lemon Lime are popular vining varieties. These are the fastest growers and the most forgiving.

Upright (self-heading) philodendrons grow from a central stem and don't trail or climb. They tend to be larger, with more dramatic leaves. Xanadu, Selloum (now Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum), Gloriosum, and Birkin are upright types. They grow more slowly and take up more floor space.

Which window works best

Philodendrons tolerate a wider range of light than many popular houseplants, but "tolerates" isn't the same as "thrives." Light level directly affects leaf size, growth speed, and in variegated types, color intensity.

East window (ideal for vining types)

Morning sun is bright enough to fuel fast growth without scorching the typically soft philodendron leaves. Vining types like heartleaf and Micans look their best in an east window. Growth is rapid, leaves come in full-sized, and the plants rarely go leggy.

West window (excellent for most types)

Afternoon sun is more intense, but most philodendrons handle it well. Upright types with thicker leaves, like Xanadu and Selloum, can take full afternoon sun in a west window without issue. Vining types with soft leaves may need a light sheer in peak summer.

South window (good with a sheer or set back)

Maximum light benefits upright philodendrons and accelerates the growth of vining types. Direct summer sun through unfiltered south glass can burn softer leaves, so either set the plant 3 feet back from the window or use a sheer curtain. The high indirect light level suits all varieties.

North window (survives, doesn't thrive)

Vining philodendrons survive north windows but grow slowly, produce smaller leaves, and eventually become leggy as they stretch toward available light. Variegated varieties lose their coloring over time. Upright types become stunted. A north window is not recommended unless supplemented with a grow light.

Why your philodendron is leggy

Long gaps between leaves, long thin stems, and smaller-than-normal leaves all point to insufficient light. The plant is stretching toward a brighter source. This happens most commonly when a philodendron that was bought at a bright garden center gets moved into a dim corner of a room.

The fix: move it closer to a window, or to a brighter window. The existing leggy growth won't compact itself, but new growth will come in fuller once light improves. If the plant looks embarrassingly bare and stretched, prune the leggy stems back to a healthy node. The cuttings root easily in water and can be planted back into the same pot to fill it out.

Watering

Philodendrons are much more forgiving about drying out than about sitting in wet soil. Water when the top inch or two of soil is dry. Stick your finger in to check rather than watering on a schedule.

In a bright window in summer, that's typically once a week. In winter or lower light, every 10 to 14 days. The plant will droop slightly when genuinely thirsty, and it bounces back quickly once watered. Yellow leaves are the most reliable sign of overwatering.

Make sure the pot has drainage holes. Philodendrons in pots without drainage are almost always overwatered, even with careful attention, because water accumulates at the bottom where you can't see or feel it.

Philodendron vs. pothos

These two plants are constantly confused at garden centers and online. Both trail, both have heart-shaped leaves, and both are popular beginner houseplants. The differences:

• Leaf texture: Philodendron leaves are softer, thinner, and often slightly velvety with a matte finish. Pothos leaves are thicker, waxier, and have a slight sheen.
• New leaf emergence: Philodendron new leaves emerge wrapped in a papery sheath called a cataphyll that dries and falls away. Pothos new leaves unfurl directly.
• Stem attachment: Pothos leaves have a slight groove where they meet the stem. Philodendron attachment is smooth.
• Light tolerance: Pothos handles lower light slightly better. Philodendrons grow faster in brighter conditions.

Popular varieties

Propagation

Vining philodendrons are among the easiest houseplants to propagate. Cut a stem just below a node (the bump where a leaf attaches). Remove the bottom leaves to leave one or two at the top. Place the cutting in a glass of water with the node submerged. Roots appear within 1 to 3 weeks.

Once roots are an inch or two long, pot the cutting in moist potting mix. Keep the soil slightly moist for the first 2 weeks as the roots transition from water to soil, then care for it as normal.

Upright philodendrons don't propagate as easily from cuttings. Many can be divided at the root ball when repotting, separating offsets that have their own roots.

Common problems

• Yellow leaves: Overwatering. Let the soil dry out more between waterings and check that drainage holes aren't blocked.
• Leggy growth with small leaves: Not enough light. Move closer to a window.
• Brown leaf tips: Low humidity or inconsistent watering. Most common in winter when heating systems run.
• Variegation fading: Insufficient light. Variegated types like Brasil and Birkin need more light than solid green types to hold their color.
• Root rot: Usually caused by overwatering combined with poor drainage. Roots turn black and mushy. Remove affected roots, let the plant dry out, and repot in fresh well-draining mix.

Frequently asked questions