Plant problems

Brachyglottis Leaves Curling

The silver daisy bush is tough, but frost and aphids will make its leaves curl. Here is how to tell them apart and what to do next.

Brachyglottis is one of the hardest-working shrubs in the UK coastal garden. Its silver-grey leaves shrug off salt spray and sea wind, its yellow daisy flowers attract bees and butterflies in June and July, and it holds its colour through winter when most other shrubs have gone bare. When the leaves curl, something has gone wrong, and the fix depends almost entirely on the time of year and how closely you look at those curled leaves.

About brachyglottis

Brachyglottis is a genus of compact evergreen shrubs native to New Zealand and Tasmania, belonging to the daisy family Asteraceae. The most widely grown form in UK gardens is Brachyglottis 'Sunshine' (also sold as Senecio 'Sunshine' after its former botanical name), a rounded shrub reaching around 1 metre in height with distinctive grey-green leaves that have white woolly undersides. That woolly backing is what gives the plant its silver appearance and its resilience against wind and salt.

Other species you may encounter include B. repanda, a larger New Zealand shrub with broad leaves that is borderline hardy in the UK, and B. greyi, similar to 'Sunshine' and often confused with it. All share the same silvery character and all respond to the same range of problems.

Brachyglottis 'Sunshine' holds an RHS H4 hardiness rating, putting it in the hardy-in-most-of-England-and-Wales category. It is a staple of seaside planting schemes across southern and western Britain, thriving in the conditions that would stress most other shrubs. Inland, away from the moderating effect of the coast, it becomes more vulnerable to hard winters.

Cause 1: Cold damage and frost

Leaf curling in late winter or early spring is almost always frost damage. Hard frosts combined with cold drying winds are particularly damaging because they work together: frost freezes the leaf tissue while wind pulls moisture from it before it can thaw properly. The woolly undersides that give the plant its silver appearance are actually bundles of fine hairs, and these are damaged when the cells within them freeze. The result is leaves that curl inward, go limp, and eventually brown at the margins.

Young plants in their first winter are considerably more vulnerable than established specimens with a deep root system. A brachyglottis that has been in the ground for three or four years and has spread its roots well is far more likely to ride out a hard frost than one planted last autumn.

The key point with frost-damaged brachyglottis is patience. Do not cut the plant back hard in late winter or early spring in an attempt to tidy it up. The old wood carries the flower buds for the coming summer, and a hard prune at the wrong time removes them. Wait until late spring, once temperatures are reliably above freezing and you can see where new growth is pushing through. Then trim back damaged shoots to healthy wood. A light clip after flowering in July is also good practice and helps keep the plant compact.

Old, neglected specimens that have become straggly can take a harder rejuvenation cut in April, once the main frost risk has passed. Brachyglottis responds well to this and will usually break from old wood.

Cause 2: Aphid infestation on new spring growth

If the curled leaves appear in May or June on the soft new shoot tips rather than across the whole plant, aphids are the most likely cause. Brachyglottis produces pale, soft new growth in spring, and colonies of blackfly or greenfly quickly colonise the tender shoot tips as they emerge. The small woolly new leaves curl tightly around the aphid colony, which makes them genuinely difficult to spot: the woolly surface provides good cover and the insects nestle inside the curl out of sight.

Two signs confirm aphids rather than frost. First, look for honeydew: the affected shoot tips will feel sticky if you brush them with a finger, and you may see a thin film of sooty mould developing on leaves below the affected tips. Second, the damage is concentrated on new growth only, not spread across older leaves.

Treatment is straightforward. Spray the curled growing tips thoroughly with an insecticidal soap solution, making sure to work it into the curled leaves. A second application a week later catches any survivors. Ladybirds and hoverfly larvae will move in once the colony is weakened. The new growth that follows the treatment usually comes through clean, and the plant recovers its appearance within a few weeks.

Other causes to consider

Wind scorch produces similar-looking damage to frost in exposed inland positions. The leaves curl and brown at the tips rather than across the whole surface. Brachyglottis handles maritime coastal wind very well, but dry continental winds from the east in spring can scorch the foliage in exposed gardens away from the sea. Improved shelter, or simply accepting that the plant performs better in coastal positions, is the usual response.

Powdery mildew can affect new growth in warm, humid, still conditions, coating leaves with a white powder that causes distortion and curling. It is less common on brachyglottis than on many other shrubs but worth checking if curling appears alongside a pale dusting on the leaf surface. Improve air circulation around the plant and remove affected shoots.

Scale insects on older stems can cause a general decline in vigour that manifests as poor, distorted new growth. Check the older woody stems for small brown waxy bumps. Treatment with a plant oil-based spray in late spring, when the crawlers are active, is effective.

Drought in recently planted specimens can cause curling as the plant struggles to move water from shallow roots into its leaves. Brachyglottis is drought tolerant once established, but plants in their first season need regular watering in dry spells. A mulch over the root zone retains moisture and makes a significant difference.

Finally, senescent inner leaves, the oldest leaves deep inside the shrub, yellow and drop naturally as a matter of course. This is not a problem and requires no intervention.

Brachyglottis in the UK garden

At its best in a sunny, well-drained position in a coastal or sheltered garden, brachyglottis earns its place all year round. The silver foliage makes a strong contrast against green-leaved shrubs and works particularly well alongside lavender, sage, santolina, and rosemary in a Mediterranean-style planting scheme. Its tolerance of salt spray and coastal wind makes it a first-choice shrub for gardens near the sea, which is why it appears so often in municipal planting schemes in UK seaside towns.

The yellow daisy flowers in June and July are a reliable draw for pollinators, and the plant is easy to propagate from semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer if you want to extend a planting.

Frequently asked questions

Why is brachyglottis often called Senecio Sunshine?

Brachyglottis was reclassified from the genus Senecio in the 1970s following botanical revisions, but the old name stuck in garden centres and nurseries for decades. The cultivar now correctly known as Brachyglottis 'Sunshine' was long sold and planted as Senecio 'Sunshine' or Senecio greyi. Both names refer to the same plant. You will still find it labelled either way in UK garden centres, particularly in coastal towns where it is a staple of municipal planting.

Should I prune brachyglottis after frost damage?

Wait until late spring before pruning frost-damaged brachyglottis. Cutting back too early in the year risks removing dormant buds and exposing the plant to further cold snaps. Once temperatures are reliably above freezing and you can see where new growth is emerging, cut damaged shoots back to healthy wood. Avoid hard rejuvenation pruning in early spring as this removes the old wood that carries the summer flower buds. If you want to cut an old, straggly specimen hard back, April is the right month once the worst frosts have passed.

Can brachyglottis recover from curled and browned leaves?

Yes, in most cases. Frost-curled leaves rarely recover their appearance but the plant itself bounces back once temperatures improve. Remove the worst-damaged foliage in late spring rather than pulling at it over winter. Aphid-curled new growth also recovers once you clear the infestation: treat the curled shoot tips with insecticidal soap, and the next flush of growth usually comes through clean.

Why are my brachyglottis leaves curling inward in summer?

Summer leaf curl on brachyglottis is most commonly caused by aphid colonies sheltering inside the new shoot tips, or by drought stress in a recently planted specimen. Check the curled leaves carefully for honeydew stickiness or sooty mould, which confirm aphids. If the soil around the base of the plant is bone dry, give it a thorough soak and add a mulch to retain moisture while roots establish. Established brachyglottis in coastal gardens is very drought tolerant, but plants in their first season still need watering in dry spells.

Is brachyglottis hardy enough for my UK garden?

Brachyglottis 'Sunshine' carries an RHS H4 hardiness rating, meaning it is hardy through most of England and Wales in a normal winter. It is borderline in colder inland positions and in Scotland, where hard prolonged frosts combined with drying winter winds can cause serious damage. The plant performs best in coastal and sheltered locations where its natural tolerance of salt spray and maritime conditions is an asset. In colder areas, plant it against a south- or west-facing wall for shelter and improved drainage.