Chickpeas (Cicer arietinum, also called garbanzo beans) are one of the most genuinely exciting and slightly unusual crops you can grow on a UK allotment. They are bushy, strongly-scented annual plants reaching 30 to 60 cm, with deeply pinnate leaves, small white or purple flowers, and pods containing one or two seeds. The leaves secrete malic acid through tiny surface glands, giving the whole plant a sharp, distinctive smell that is instantly recognisable once you know it. Desi types produce small, darker seeds; Kabuli types produce the large, cream-coloured seeds familiar from supermarket shelves. Sow under glass in March or April and plant out after the last frosts, or sow direct in May, knowing that the crop needs a long warm season to ripen properly. When chickpea leaves curl or develop lesions, the cause is almost always Ascochyta blight or aphids. Acting quickly makes the difference between a recoverable crop and a lost one.
Cause 1: Ascochyta blight (Ascochyta rabiei)
Ascochyta blight, caused by the fungus Ascochyta rabiei (also classified as Phoma rabiei), is the most serious disease of chickpeas worldwide and the primary reason chickpea leaves curl and die back in UK gardens. The disease first appears as brown oval lesions on the leaves and stems, often with a paler centre and a darker margin. As the infection spreads, affected leaves yellow rapidly, die back from the tips, and curl as the tissue collapses. Pods develop similar lesions when infected at that stage, and the seeds inside can be destroyed entirely in a severe outbreak.
The disease thrives in the cool, damp conditions that are extremely common in British summers. A run of wet weather in June or July can be all it takes to trigger a rapid and devastating outbreak on a previously healthy planting. The fungal spores spread by rain splash from plant to plant and from debris on the soil surface, which means a single infected plant in a small plot can infect its neighbours within days of wet weather starting. The pathogen is also carried on infected seed, which is how it arrives in a plot where chickpeas have not been grown before.
What to do about Ascochyta blight
Start with certified disease-free seed from a reputable supplier. This is the single most effective step a UK grower can take, since the disease can arrive in a plot entirely on the seed. Space plants widely, at least 30 cm apart, to allow air to circulate freely through the canopy and to ensure that wet foliage dries out more quickly after rain. Avoid watering from overhead: a drip or base-level watering approach reduces the amount of time the foliage is wet and significantly reduces the rate of spore splash dispersal between plants. Rotate chickpeas to a different bed each year, since the pathogen persists in the soil and in infected plant debris; a gap of at least three years before returning chickpeas to the same ground is ideal. At the first sign of the characteristic brown lesions, remove and destroy infected material immediately. Do not compost it. There is no fungicide available to UK home growers for this disease, so prevention and prompt removal of infected tissue are the only tools available.
Cause 2: Aphids (pea aphid and other legume aphids)
The pea aphid (Acyrthosiphon pisum) and several related legume aphids colonise chickpea plants, concentrating on the soft shoot tips where the feathery pinnate leaves are youngest and most tender. Heavy aphid colonies on the shoot tips cause the leaves to curl and distort as the insects feed by piercing individual cells and withdrawing sap. The growing tip itself can stunt and stop elongating under the pressure of a large colony. Aphid feeding deposits sticky honeydew on the foliage below the colony, which supports the growth of black sooty mould and further reduces the plant's ability to photosynthesise effectively.
The malic acid secreted by chickpea leaves gives the plant a distinctive smell that may deter some generalist pests. Aphids, however, can still establish successfully, particularly on plants under any stress or in periods of warm weather when aphid populations build rapidly across the whole garden. Winged adults arriving from nearby legumes such as peas and broad beans are the usual source of a new infestation on chickpeas.
What to do about aphids on chickpeas
Treat aphid colonies early, before the population builds to the point where it is genuinely damaging. A firm jet of water directed at the colonies on the shoot tips dislodges many individuals immediately. Repeat this every two or three days. Insecticidal soap spray applied directly to the colonies is effective and breaks down quickly, leaving no long-lasting residue. Natural predators, including ladybirds, hoverfly larvae, and parasitic wasps, are highly effective at suppressing aphid populations on well-managed allotment plots and will work without any help from you if broad-spectrum insecticides are avoided. Ants protect aphid colonies from predators in exchange for honeydew; if you see heavy ant activity on the plants, a physical barrier around the base discourages the ants and allows natural predators to reach the colonies.
Other causes of leaf curl on chickpeas
Waterlogging is one of the most serious non-disease problems for chickpeas in the UK. The plants are extremely sensitive to saturated soil and will develop root rot, yellowing, wilting, and die-back even after a brief period of waterlogged conditions. A free-draining soil is not merely preferable for chickpeas: it is essential. Growing on raised beds or ridges in the UK's wet climate is strongly advisable, and heavy clay soils should be improved with grit and organic matter before planting. If the soil stays wet for more than a day or two after heavy rain, chickpeas will struggle regardless of other care.
Drought stress in free-draining soils during hot spells can cause leaf curl, particularly during the pod-fill stage when the developing seeds have high water demand. Chickpeas in raised beds or light soils benefit from consistent moisture during flowering and pod fill. A mulch helps retain moisture during dry spells.
Botrytis (grey mould), caused by Botrytis cinerea, produces a grey-brown rotting of leaves and stems in wet, humid conditions. It is more common in poorly spaced plantings where air movement through the canopy is restricted. Remove affected tissue and improve spacing and airflow.
Mosaic virus, transmitted by aphids, produces characteristic mosaic mottling, leaf distortion, and curl that persists even after aphids are removed. Infected plants cannot be cured. Remove and destroy them promptly and focus on controlling aphid populations on the remaining crop.
Prevention: keeping your chickpeas in good health
- Always use certified disease-free seed from a reputable supplier. This is the most effective single step against Ascochyta blight.
- Sow under glass in March or early April and transplant after the last frosts in late May. Starting indoors gives the longest possible growing season, which is particularly important in the UK's relatively short warm season.
- Grow in a sheltered, sunny position in free-draining soil. This is non-negotiable: waterlogged soil will kill chickpeas quickly.
- Space plants at least 30 cm apart to maximise airflow and reduce the spread of Ascochyta blight in wet weather.
- Avoid overhead watering. Water at the base of the plant to keep foliage dry and reduce the rate of fungal spore dispersal.
- Rotate chickpeas to a different bed each year, ideally with a gap of at least three years before returning them to the same ground.
- Remove and destroy any plant material showing Ascochyta lesions immediately. Do not compost it.
- In southern and eastern England, favour Kabuli types for an easier-to-source seed and a familiar end product, or experiment with Desi types for a slightly earlier maturity.
Frequently asked questions
What is Ascochyta blight and why is it so serious on chickpeas?
Ascochyta blight, caused by Ascochyta rabiei (also known as Phoma rabiei), is the most destructive disease of Cicer arietinum worldwide. It produces brown oval lesions on the leaves, stems, and pods, followed by rapid yellowing, die-back, and plant collapse in severe outbreaks. The disease thrives in the cool, wet conditions that are very common in UK growing seasons, making it particularly relevant for British growers. It spreads easily by rain splash between plants and is also carried on infected seed. Once established in a planting, it can devastate the crop within days of wet weather. Use only certified disease-free seed, space plants generously for airflow, avoid overhead watering, rotate chickpeas to a different bed each year, and remove and destroy any infected material immediately. No fungicide is currently available to UK home growers.
Why do my chickpea leaves smell strange or feel sticky?
Chickpea leaves secrete malic acid through tiny glands on their surface, giving the entire plant a strongly distinctive sharp or acidic smell, quite unlike any other common vegetable. The secretion also makes the leaves slightly tacky to the touch. This is entirely normal and is one of the most memorable things about growing chickpeas for the first time. The acid secretion may deter some generalist pests, though pea aphids and other legume aphids can still establish on the plants. The smell is so characteristic that experienced growers often identify the plant by scent before looking closely at the foliage.
Which parts of the UK are best suited to growing chickpeas?
Chickpeas need a long warm season to set good seeds, which makes them most reliable in southern and eastern England where summers are warmest and driest. Starting plants under glass in March or April and transplanting after the last frosts in late May gives the longest possible growing season in any UK location. In the Midlands and northern England, the season is shorter and the risk of cool, wet summers higher, which reduces both yield and the likelihood of successful seed maturity. A sheltered, sunny, south-facing position and free-draining soil are essential wherever you grow them. The crop is genuinely challenging in Scotland or Wales in most years, though a favourable summer can produce a rewarding harvest even there.
Can I eat chickpeas fresh from the pod, or do I need to dry them?
You can eat chickpeas fresh and green directly from the pod, and this is genuinely one of the great pleasures of growing them yourself. The fresh green seeds have a bright, nutty, slightly sweet flavour quite unlike dried chickpeas, and they are eaten this way as a delicacy in Middle Eastern cuisine. Simply pick the pods when they are plump and still green, shell them, and eat the seeds raw or very lightly cooked. No supermarket sells fresh green chickpeas in the UK; growing your own is the only way to experience them. You can also leave pods on the plant to dry fully in a warm, dry late summer, then harvest the dried seeds for storage and cooking in the usual way.
What is the difference between Desi and Kabuli chickpeas for UK growing?
Desi chickpeas are smaller, have a darker-coloured, rougher seed coat, and tend to mature slightly earlier, which can be an advantage in the UK's shorter growing season. Kabuli chickpeas are larger, cream-coloured, and smooth-skinned: these are the familiar supermarket chickpea. Kabuli types are the most commonly grown in UK kitchen gardens because the seed is easy to source and the harvest looks like what people expect. Both types need the same conditions: free-draining soil, a sheltered sunny position, and as long a growing season as possible. Starting indoors in March or early April gives either type a better chance of producing a full crop before the autumn.