About viburnum tinus
Viburnum tinus, commonly called laurustinus, is one of the most widely planted evergreen shrubs in UK gardens, and for good reason. It grows to three to five metres as a rounded shrub or small tree, produces flat clusters (corymbs) of white or pink-tinged flowers from November through to March when almost nothing else is in bloom, and follows those flowers with metallic blue-black berries in late summer and autumn before the next set of buds forms. The oval, dark glossy green leaves are dense enough to make it an excellent screening hedge, and the plant tolerates coastal exposure, deep shade, dry soils, and urban pollution with remarkable equanimity. Popular cultivars include 'Eve Price', which is compact with very heavy pink-budded flowering; 'Gwenllian', which has deep pink buds opening to white flowers; and 'Spirit', the most compact of the three. All are in the family Adoxaceae.
Its winter flowers are a genuine ecological asset. Bumblebees and other bees that fly on mild winter days rely on viburnum tinus as one of very few nectar sources between November and March. The berries feed thrushes and other birds. In a north-facing or shaded garden where little else will flower in winter, a well-grown V. tinus is close to irreplaceable, and it pairs beautifully with mahonia and winter jasmine for a long-season winter interest planting. All of which makes it worth diagnosing and treating correctly when the leaves start curling.
Viburnum beetle (Pyrrhalta viburni)
Viburnum beetle has become a major UK garden pest over the past two decades, and it now ranks as the primary pest threat to all viburnums, including V. tinus. The adult beetles are greyish-brown and around six millimetres long. The females lay their eggs in characteristic neat rows of notches cut into the bark of woody shoot tips in summer, and the eggs overwinter there. They hatch in April or early May, releasing cream-yellow larvae with black markings that feed gregariously in clusters on the undersides of the leaves.
The damage is distinctive. The larvae skeletonise the leaves by feeding between the veins, leaving the remaining tissue to dry, curl, and brown at the edges. A heavily infested plant can look ragged and scorched by late May. Viburnum tinus is generally less affected than deciduous viburnums (V. opulus and V. lantana are particularly susceptible), but it can suffer serious damage in some years, especially in warmer parts of the country where beetle populations have built up over many seasons. Inspect the undersides of leaves in April, where you will see clusters of small yellow-black grubs if beetles are present. Squash any colonies you find with your fingers. Organic neem-based sprays applied to the leaf undersides at egg hatch in April provide additional control.
Winter is the best time for long-term management. Inspect the shoot tips carefully from October onwards and look for the egg-notch rows in the bark. Cut off and destroy all infested shoot tips before the eggs hatch the following spring. Consistently done over two or three winters, this significantly reduces the beetle population on an individual plant. Encouraging natural predators, particularly birds that feed in the shrub border, also helps keep populations in check.
Viburnum whitefly and sooty mould
The whitefly species that colonises viburnum tinus is Aleurotuba jelinekii (previously recorded under the name Aleurothrixus floccosus in some older references). It is a small white flying insect that congregates on the undersides of the leaves, where it feeds on plant sap and excretes large quantities of sticky honeydew. That honeydew coats the upper leaf surface below the feeding site, and a black sooty mould fungus grows on it. The result is leaves that appear dark, blackened, slightly sticky, and curled at the margins in a way that can look dramatic and alarming.
Viburnum whitefly is most common in sheltered gardens and on plants grown against walls, where the warm, still air suits it. A plant in an open, breezy position is much less likely to develop a serious infestation. The blackening from sooty mould can look much worse than it actually is: sooty mould does not infect the plant tissue directly, and once the whitefly population is brought under control and the honeydew source is removed, the mould dries and gradually weathers off.
To treat, spray the undersides of all affected leaves thoroughly with insecticidal soap solution, covering every leaf surface. The soap disrupts the waxy coating of the immature whitefly and kills on contact. Repeat the treatment two weeks later to catch any that escaped the first application. Improving airflow around the plant by pruning congested stems reduces the likelihood of reinfestation. Natural predators, including parasitic wasps and ladybirds, arrive in time and contribute meaningfully to population control once the initial infestation is brought down to a lower level.
Other causes of curling leaves
Thrips cause silver-flecked or streaked patches on the upper leaf surface combined with marginal curling. The damage has a slightly different texture from mite or whitefly damage: the cells are abraded rather than pierced, giving a fine silvery sheen rather than a sticky or skeletal appearance. The same approach applies: inspect the undersides, use insecticidal soap, and improve airflow.
Frost damage to young growth is a seasonal cause of curling and browning at the shoot tips in late spring. Viburnum tinus is hardy across most of the UK, but the soft new growth that emerges in spring is vulnerable to a sharp frost. The damage is self-limiting and confined to the tips. Cut out the affected growth once the frost risk has passed and the plant regenerates quickly.
Drought in recently planted specimens causes inward curling of the leaves and a general loss of gloss and vigour, particularly in dry shade at the base of walls or under established trees. V. tinus is tolerant of dry conditions once established, but in its first two or three seasons it benefits from consistent watering during dry spells.
Powdery mildew on new growth in shaded positions with poor airflow produces a white coating and leaf distortion. V. tinus is not particularly susceptible, but plants grown hard against a wall with very limited airflow can develop it. Improving pruning to open the structure is the primary remedy.
Phytophthora root rot is a serious concern on V. tinus in poorly drained clay soils. Leaves pale, wilt, and curl before the plant declines rapidly, often over a single season. There is no cure once Phytophthora has established in the root system. Improving drainage before planting is the only reliable preventive measure. Remove and do not replant the same or closely related species in the same spot.
A note on Xylella fastidiosa: this bacterial disease affects viburnums and has caused severe losses to V. tinus in Italy and southern France. It has not yet been confirmed in the UK, but it is a statutory quarantine pest and is monitored closely. If your plant collapses rapidly without any clear pest or cultural explanation, report it to the relevant plant health authority rather than treating it yourself.
Frequently asked questions
What is eating my viburnum tinus leaves and making them curl?
Viburnum beetle larvae (Pyrrhalta viburni) are the most likely cause from April to June. The cream-yellow grubs with black markings feed gregariously on the undersides of leaves, skeletonising them and leaving the remaining tissue to curl and brown at the edges. Check the undersides of leaves in spring for clusters of small yellow larvae. Squash any colonies you find and remove egg-infested shoot tips in winter to reduce the following year's population.
Why are my viburnum tinus leaves black and sticky?
Black, sticky leaves on viburnum tinus almost always mean whitefly followed by sooty mould. The whitefly (Aleurotuba jelinekii) feeds on the undersides of leaves and excretes honeydew, which coats the upper leaf surface and provides a growth medium for black sooty mould fungus. The blackening looks alarming but is secondary to the pest. Spray the undersides of the leaves with insecticidal soap, improve airflow around the plant, and the sooty mould will clear naturally once the honeydew source is removed.
Is viburnum tinus affected by viburnum beetle?
Yes, though viburnum tinus is generally less affected than deciduous viburnums such as V. opulus and V. lantana. The viburnum beetle has become a major UK pest since arriving from continental Europe, and V. tinus can suffer serious larval damage in some years. The larvae feed from April to June, and the females lay eggs in notches in the woody shoot tips in summer. Removing egg-infested shoot tips in winter is the most effective organic control, destroying the overwintering eggs before they hatch the following spring.
Can viburnum tinus get Xylella fastidiosa?
Xylella fastidiosa is a bacterial disease that affects viburnums and has caused serious damage to V. tinus in Italy and southern France. It has not yet been confirmed in the UK, but it is a statutory quarantine pest, and the UK plant health authority monitors for it closely. If your viburnum tinus collapses rapidly with no clear pest or cultural cause, report it to the Food and Environment Research Agency (or equivalent current authority) rather than treating it yourself.
Why are the tips of my viburnum tinus leaves curling and going brown after a cold spell?
Frost damage causes the young growth tips of viburnum tinus to curl, brown, and collapse after a late spring frost. Viburnum tinus is hardy in most UK gardens, but the soft new growth that emerges in spring is vulnerable to a sharp frost. The damage is usually restricted to the shoot tips and does not threaten the plant. Prune out the damaged growth once the risk of further frost has passed and the plant will regenerate quickly from the remaining buds.